UC-NRLF 


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VxLlTJL 

,,uV  IS    1918 


The  State  College  of  [Washington 

LIBRARY  BULLETIN 


W.  W.  FOOTE,  Librarian 

Library  Director  for 
Washington 


HOME  ECONOMICS  SERIES  NO.  3 

BIBLIOGRAPHY  OF  THE  ECONOMICS  OF 
TEXTILES  AND  CLOTHING 

Prepared  by  the  College  of  Home  Economics  and  the  College  Library, 
for  the  use  of  Librarians,  Home  Economics  teachers  and 
others  interested  in  collecting  printed  informa- 
tion on  Textiles  and  Clothing  Con- 
servation. 

Introduction   by 

Miss  Agnes  H.  Craig,   Head  of  the  College   of  Home  Economics 

Director  of   Home  Economics   for  Washington 

U.    S.    Food  Administration 


Price  twenty-five  cents. 


Ten  dollars  per  100. 


PREFACE 


This  bibliography  is  the  sixth  of  a  series  of  library  bulletins 
published  by  the  library  of  the  State  College  of  Washington  during 
the  past  two  years.  It  is  offered  as  a  further  contribution  to  the 
nation-wide  movement  for  conservation  of  all  national  resources. 
Our  food  bibliography,  issued  last  March,  has  been  received  so 
favorably  throughout  the  country  that  we  hope  this  also  will  be 
of  service. 

The  appointment  of  Mr.  John  W.  Scott,  Chief  of  the  Textile 
Division,  by  the  War  Industries  Board,  brings  this  phase  of  con- 
servation very  prominently  to  public  attention,  and  we  believe  many 
will  be  interested  in  having  a  carefully  prepared  bibliography  on 
this  subject. 

The  list  has  been  prepared  by  the  College  Library  and  the 
College  of  Home  Eeonoknics  iw  cooperation.  We  are  indebted  to 
Miss  Agnes  H.  Craig,  Head  of  trie  Coliege  of  Home  Economics,  and 
Director  of  Home  EfcGpprifeig$Sr*{&6  S$a;fe  of  Washington,  U.S  Food 
Administration,  fov  tfee  vaiuaBte  iitrtroductioh  which  should  be  care- 
fully read  by  those  using  the  bibliography. 

We  wish  to  express  our  appreciation  to  the  compilers,  Miss 
Swensen,  and  Miss  Clatworthy,  to  the  members  of  the  library  staff, 
and  others  for  their  cooperation  in  the  preparation  of  this  bibliog- 
raphy. 

August  1,  1918. 

W.  W.  FOOTE,  Librarian. 
Library  Director  Washington 
U.   S.   Food  Administration. 


THE  ECONOMICS  OF  TEXTILES 
AND  CLOTHING 

Compiled  by 
Linda   M.   Clatworthy,    Special   Bibliographer 

and 

Sadie  J.   Swenson,   Instructor   of   Textiles 
College  of  Home  Economics 


INTRODUCTION 

Although  food  economy  must  continue  to  be  of  major  im- 
portance in  our  war  conservation  program,  economic  pressure  is 
directing  our  attention  to  other  kinds  of  industrial  thrift  which  will 
develop  a  positive  and  increasingly  urgent  need  for  study  on  the 
part  of  our  civilian  consumers. 

The  most  notable  of  these  is  textile  conservation,  the  im- 
mediate need  for  which  is  indicated  by  the  recent  appointment  of  a 
Textile  Director  as  a  member  of  the  War  Industries  Board.  The  sig- 
nificance of  this  appointment  will  be  more  appreciated  if  we  recog- 
nize the  textile  industry  in  its  relation  to  the  other  great  world 
industries  of  food,  iron  and  steel,  lumber  and  building  materials.  In 
the  number  of  people  employed  it  ranks  first  and  so  far  as  economic 
return  is  involved  it  holds  third  place.  This  normal  status  has  been 
greatly  changed  by  the  war  which  has  seriously  disturbed  world 
production  in  this  field  and  has  also  caused  a  marked  shifting  of 
emphasis  in  the  use  of  raw  material  and  manufactured  textiles  so 
that  unusual  protective  measures  are  necessary  if  a  safe  industrial 
equilibrium  is  to  be  maintained. 

Much  will  depend  upon  our  ability  to  bring  in  wool  from  other 
lands,  notably  South  America  and  Australia;  but  the  consumers  of 
woolen  clothing  need  not  be  concerned  for  many  months  to  come, 
for  it  is  believed  that  the  stocks  of  woolen  cloth  and  woolen  gar- 
ments now  in  the  hands  of  the  manufacturers  and  merchants  are 
sufficient  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  public. 

Although  cotton  is  plentiful,  and  there  appears  to  be  a  large 
crop  to  be  taken  in  this  fall,  the  greatly  increased  demands  on  the 
part  of  the  Government  for  certain  cotton  cloths  has  curtailed  the 
supply  for  civilian  trade  and  high  prices  generally  have  been  reached, 
so  high  in  fact  that  in  June,  1918  the  cotton  goods  manufacturers 
agreed  with  the  Price  Fixing  Committee  to  stabilize  the  industry  by 
a  reduction  in  prices  which  would  eventually  carry  through  to  the 
consumer. 


383603 


Linen  is  almost  out  of  the  market  so  far  as  the  manufactur- 
ers are  concerned,  and  while  there  are  still  stocks  of  linen  in  the 
hands  of  merchants,  it  may  be  years  after  the  war  before  normal 
stocks  will  be  available. 

Silks  have  been  in  very  great  demand  for  the  past  two  years, 
and  while  the  Government  needs  for  silk  are  very  much  less  than  they 
are  for  wool  and  cotton,  certain  kinds  of  silk  are  required  in  large 
quantities  for  the  making  of  powder  bags,  etc.;  while  the  price  of 
silk  has  advanced  very  decidedly,  the  advance  has  not  been  so  great 
as  the  advance  in  cotton  goods. 

Our  present  emergency  undoubtedly  promises  us  a  full  quota  of 
serious  problems  for  the  consumer  and  indicates  in  no  uncertain 
terms  the  need  for  general  textile  education  as  an  aid  in  determin- 
ing the  best  ways  and  means  of  meeting  the  situation. 

Our  present  emergency,  however,  does  not  constitute  the  only 
reason  why  this  should  be  done.  Through  the  rapid  development  of 
public  utilities  and  their  popular  extension  into  the  home,  American 
women  have  long  been  released  from  the  exactions  of  pioneer  living 
and  have  benefited  from  the  privileges  of  increased  leisure,  there- 
fore they  owe  a  greater  obligation  in  terms  of  intelligent  service 
where  industrial  problems  and  workers  are  concerned.  This  is  par- 
ticularly true  of  the  textile  field  because  more  than  any  other  it 
involves  women  in  industry. 

Since  the  time  when  these  industries  were  taken  from  the  home 
woman's  responsibility  has  been  logically  and  rightly  extended  from 
that  of  an  individual  and  local  consumer  to  that  of  a  highly  social- 
ized consumer.  This  transfer  of  industrial  occupations  brought 
about  some  of  the  most  disturbing  economic  and  social  problems 
that  confront  us  today,  such  as  woman's  place  in  industry,  child 
labor,  the  minimum  wage,  etc.  Furthermore,  since  woman  really 
does  control  the  field  of  consumption  through  her  responsibility  as 
the  spender  of  the  income  there  is  every  reason  why  she  should 
have  a  working  knowledge  of  economic  principles  in  their  relation 
to  the  problems  of  the  consumer  as  that  men  should  be  familiar 
with  the  economics  of  production  and  distribution  in  the  larger 
world  of  industry. 

There  are  also  many  misconceptions  that  need  to  be  corrected. 
In  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  textile  industry  in  America  ranks 
among  the  highest  in  quality  and  in  economic  conditions  controlling 
output,  people  are  still  bound  by  the  fetish  of  the  foreign  trade- 
mark as  mark  of  quality.  Some  of  the  finest  woolen  materials 
are  made  here  but  must  be  marked  with  a  foreign  trade-mark  to 
give  them  favor  with  American  customers.  Such  practice  is  neither 
good  economics  nor  good  patriotism. 

Another  example  is  that  of  the  dye  situation.  Color  chemistry 
is  the  same  the  world  over.  American  dyes  are  just  as  good  as 


German  dyes  because  they  are  the  same  formula.  The  only  way  in 
which  American  dyes  fall  short  is  in  variety  of  color,  a  condition 
which  is  being  rapidly  changed.  The  war  has  so  stimulated  Ameri- 
can experimentation  in  this  field  that  our  control  of  dyes  promises 
to  be  complete  after  the  war. 

So  called  standardized  dress  is  another  subject  about  which 
much  absurd  theory,  neither  practical  nor  desirable,  is  advanced. 
Standardization  should  not  mean  the  adoption  of  a  fixed  type  for 
all  purposes  and  for  all  time,  in  other  words  a  uniform,  but  should 
rather  mean  the  stabilizing  and  control  of  the  tempo  of  style  or 
fashion  by  means  of  the  education  of  the  popular  mind  in  the  prac- 
tice of  reasonable  judgement  and  taste.  There  is  no  greater  aid  to 
this  type  of  economic  practice  than  the  intelligent  application  of 
the  art  principles  of  color  and  form  to  problems  of  dress  and  fur- 
nishings. Consciously  or  unconsciously  people  express  their  mental 
capacity  and  training  through  their  selection,  use  and  care  of 
clothes.  There  is  undoubtedly  an  urgent  need  for  great  modification 
and  control  in  this  respect  but  arbitrary  measures  should  not  be 
resorted  to.  There  should  be  sufficient  latitude  to  provide  for  the 
exercise  of  such  freedom  in  selection  and  form  as  shall  guarantee  a 
reasonable  incentive  to  the  individual  to  express  her  ideals  and  per- 
sonality through  this  medium. 

People  show  a  laudable  desire  to  express  themselves  patri- 
otically in  relation  to  war  measures  but  frequently  find  difficulty  in 
knowing  how  to  interpret  the  various  programs  of  conservation  and 
thrift  that  are  suggested.  The  first  step  is  to  find  out  what  real 
economy  means  after  which  the  measure  of  sane  practice  will  be 
greatly  increased.  Economy  does  not  mean  parsimony,  neither  does 
it  mean  entire  curtailment  in  either  food  or  clothing.  In  the  former 
we  are  learning  our  lessons  with  comparative  ease  but  the  regulation 
of  economy  in  textiles  and  clothing  is  more  difficult  and  intangible 
because  it  is  not  so  consciously  a  personal  matter  as  food.  The 
processes  of  production,  manufacture  and  distribution  are  so  numer- 
ous and  obscure  in  the  mind  of  the  consumer  that  they  are  not 
readily  or  clearly  connected  with  the  every-day  needs  of  the  average 
individual.  Consumers  in  this  field  must  undertsand  the  significance 
of  the  laws  governing  economic  and  commercial  stability  so  that 
the  peril  of  industrial  panic  may  be  averted.  This  is  the  kind  of 
cooperation  that  the  civilian  consumer  should  be  able  to  give  our 
government  and  its  industrial  captains  at  this  time  as  well  as  in  the 
future  days  of  reconstruction. 

It  is  with  these  and  other  practical  thoughts  in  mind  that  we 
have  brought  together  the  material  contained  in  this  bibliography  on 
the  "Economics  of  Textiles  and  Clothing."  It  is  not  intended  to  be 
exhaustive,  only  suggestive  along  the  more  important  lines  of 


thought  closely  related  to  the  subject  in  hand.  We  believe  the  bibli- 
ography to  be  timely  as  an  aid  to  intelligent  and  economical  prac- 
tice in  the  special  field  of  textiles  and  clothing.  Much  valuable  ma- 
terial could  not  be  included  for  lack  of  space  and  for  other  reasons 
but  there  has  been  careful  selection  with  the  idea  of  giving  practical 
aid  and  a  variety  of  viewpoint  on  such  subjects  as: — problems  of 
conservation  as  they  are  really  involved  in  retail  merchandising;  the 
locating  of  extravagance  and  where  saving  in  this  respect  may  be 
affected;  style  and  its  control  in  relation  to  economy  and  beauty;  the 
burden  and  loss  involved  in  our  present  delivery  system,  department 
store  practice,  camouflage  of  the  bargain  sale,  return  privileges,  quan- 
tity buying,  seasonal  buying,  repair,  etc.;  the  psychology  of  sales- 
manship in  victimizing  the  easy  customer;  economic  and  social  re- 
actions involved  in  industrial  methods;  strikes  among  women  work- 
ers; fundamental  causes  of  the  increased  cost  of  living;  the  im- 
portance of  the  Protocol  Agreement  between  employers  and  garment 
workers  and  its  relation  to  clothing  production  under  sanitary  con- 
ditions, wages,  hours,  etc.  Not  only  are  these  topics  packed  with 
thought  material  that  will  be  of  practical  aid  to  women  in  solving 
their  personal  problems  but  which  must  be  appreciated  and  under- 
stood if  they  are  to  make  intelligent  use  of  the  suffrage  in  promoting 
constructive  legislation  of  any  kind  meant  to  contribute  to  better 
social  and  industrial  conditions.  :  . 

We  are  deeply  indebted  to  Mr.  W.  W.  Foote,  librarian  of  the 
State  College  of  Washington  and  Library  Publicity  Director  for  the 
State  of  Washington  for  his  liberal  encouragement  of  the  work,  for 
his  contribution  in  offering  all  the  facilities  of  the  library  and  for 
his  willingness  to  publish  the  bibliography  as  one  of  the  series  of 
Library  Extension  Bulletins.  Enough  credit  cannot  be  given  to 
Miss  Linda  Clatworthy,  special  bibliographer,  and  to  Miss  Sadie  J 
Swenson,  specialist  in  textiles  and  clothing  in  the  College  of  Home 
Economics.  Miss  Clatworthy's  notable  work  and  wide  experience 
as  a  reference  librarian  make  her  contribution  unusually  valuable. 
Miss  Swenson's  untiring  work  in  the  selection  and  review  of  books, 
bulletins  and  popular  articles  has  been  much  aided  by  her  long  prac- 
tical experience  as  one  of  the  first  women  who  undertook  this  study 
of  textile  education  as  her  special  field. 

It  is  hoped  that  the  bibliography  will  be  useful  to  home  eco- 
nomics teachers  of  all  types,  to  club  women  interested  in  selecting 
subjects  for  club  study,  to  social  workers,  librarians  seeking  to  aid 
in  this  field  of  information  and  conservation  and  to  the  public 
generally  who  may  be  seeking  guidance  in  this  wide  field  of  con- 
servation activity.  Signed:  AGNES  HOUSTON  CRAIG,, 

Head,  College  of  Home  Economics,  and 
Director  of  Home  Economics  for  Wash- 
ington for  the  U.  S.  Food  Administration. 


CONTENTS 

* 

Preface    2 

Introduction t 3 

I.    The  commercialization  of  textiles  and  clothing 9 

Development  of  the  textile  industry 9 

Economics  of  the  manufacture  and  distribution  of  cloth  and 

ready-to-wear  clothing 10 

System  of  manufacture  and  wholesale  merchandising   ....  10 

Retail  merchandising    12 

Training  salesmen  in  knowledge  of  goods   13 

Style    14 

Advertising    14 

Condition  of  the  workers  in  mills,  factories  and  stores 15 

General   1,5 

Hours  of  labor 16 

Wages    .  .  17 

Textile  mills    17 

Child  labor  . .   . .   17 

Clothing   industry 18 

Home  labor  and  sweat  shops  19 

Consumer's  League 20 

Protocol  agreement    21 

Retail  stores    21 

Dressmaking    22 

Laundries    22 

II.  The  consumer  and  reaction  of  modern  methods  of  merchan- 
dising    23 

Economics  of  spending    23 

Extravagance 23 

Shopping  habits    24 

Moderation    in    style    and    freedom    in   individual    choice 
in   dress    25 

III.  Science  and  fundamental  principles  of  clothing    25 

How  to  know  fabrics 25 

Dyes   and  dyeing    28 

Hygiene    29 

Economy  in  selection 29 

Clothing  budget   29 

Points  in  buying  .30 

Art .'.' .'.'31 

Ethics    . .  3.2 


CONTENTS  (Continued) 

IV.  Technique   of  garment    making    32 

Sewing  and  dressmaking 33 

Remodeling   35 

Children's   clothing 35 

V.  Cleaning  and  preservation  of  clothing   35 

Laundry 35 

Chemistry  . . 36 

Soaps 36 

Equipment 36 

Removal  of  stains  37 

Dry  cleaning  and  preservation   37 

VI.  The  textile  situation,  1917-8 37 

Cotton  .38 

Dyestuffs    38 

Linen   39 

Leather    39 

Silk    39 

Substitutes , 39 

Wool    40 

VII.  Suggestive   study  outlines    40 

Department  stores    . .    40 

Schools    40 

Women's  clubs  41 

VIII.  Key  to  magazines  and  bulletins 41 


COMMERCIALIZATION  OF  TEXTILES  AND 
CLOTHING 


DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  TEXTILE  INDUSTRIES 

*Bogart,  E.  L.  Economic  history  of  the  United  States.  Ed.  2. 
Longmans,  c  1907-12.  $1.75. 

Chapters  on  cotton  and  slavery,  p  132-4Z;  introduction,  domesti- 
cation and  growth  of  the  factory  system,  p  148-88,  slavery  and 
the  South,  p  290-305. 

Note:     Any  good  industrial  history  of  the  United  States  may  be 
consulted,  as  Coman,  McVey  or  Wright,   noted  below. 

Brooks,  E.   C.       Story   of   cotton  and   development   of  the  cotton 
states.       Rand  &  McNally,  1911.       $.75. 

An  excellent  reference  for  elementary  courses  in  history  of  tex- 
tiles. Treats  of  one  of  the  greatest  industries  of  the  world  and 
its  relation  to  the  life  of  the  people.  Approaches  the  subject 
from  historic  and  economic  aspects  in  its  relation  to  tne  po- 
litical forces  of  the  world.  The  author  has  a  thorough  under- 
standing of  the  subject  and  presents  it  in  a  broad,  vital  and  inter- 
esting manner;  good  maps  and  Illustrations. 

Coman,  Katharine.       The  industrial  history  of  the  United  States. 
New  and  rev  ed.       Macmillan,  c  1905-10.       $1.60. 

*Earle,  A.  M.  Home  life  in  colonial  days.  Macmillan,  1898.  $2.50. 
Portrays  life  in  our  country  in  the  early  days.  Has  chapters  on 
flax  and  wool  culture;  hand  weaving;  dress  and  occupations  re- 
lating to  it.  An  authoritative  historical  background  for  the  study 
of  the  evolution  of  textile  industry  in  America. 

Kissell,  M.    L.       Yarn  and  cloth-making,       Macmillan,  1918.      An- 
nounced. 

McVey,    F.    L.        Modern    industrialism.       Appleton,    1904.        $1.50. 

Chapter  1  and  2  on  rise  and  development  in  England  and  U.   S. 
Price,  I.  H.      King  Cotton  in  field,  mill  and  mart.       Outlook  106: 

714-22  My  28  '14. 

*tScherer,  J.  A.  B.  Cotton  as  a  world  power.  Stokes,  1916.  $2.00. 
A  fascinatingly  told  story  of  the  history  and  growth  in  economic 
importance  of  cotton  production  and  .manufacture,  tracing  it  front 
mythical  times  to  India.  England  and  U.  S.  up  to  the  world  war. 
A  readable  introduction  to  economics  for  •women,  giving  a  basis 
for  appreciation  of  the  way  human  clothing  needs  have  influenced 
world  history  and  are  likely  to  bring  further  political  compli- 
cations. 

9 


Seligman,   E.   R.  A.       Economic  interpretation  of  history.       Ed.  2. 

Columbian  Univ  press,  c  1907.      $1.50. 

Sully,  D.  J.       King-  Cotton's  impoverished  retinue.       Cosmopolitan 
p  253-78  F  '09. 

Dawn   of  the  cotton  century.       Cosmopolitan   p   408-11 
My  '09. 

The  remedy.       Cosmopolitan  p  546-53  Ap  '09> 


Thompson,    Holland.        From   the    cotton    field  to   the    cotton    mill. 
Macmillan,    1906.       $1.50. 

A  study  of  industrial  transition  in  N.  Carolina,  a  typical  cotton 
state. 

tTryon,  R.    M.        Household  manufactures  in  United  States.       Chi- 
cago Univ  press,  1917.      $2.00. 

A  valuable  reference  for  hig-h  and  normal  schools  and  colleges. 
Furnishes  a  background  for  historic,  economic  and  social  phases 
of  textile  study  and  is  an  excellent  supplementary  reference  to 
such  texts  as  McVey's  "Modern  Industrialism."  It  deals  -with 
such  topics  as  the  status  and  factors  affecting-  household  manu- 
factures in  the  colonies;  a  quarter  century  of  developments,  1784- 
1809;  the  products  of  the  family  factory;  the  transition  from 
family  to  shops  and  factory-made  goods.  Advance  chapters  were 
issued  in  Elementary  school  journal,  N  &  D  '1.6. 

*Walton,   Perry.       Story  of  textiles.       Walton  advertising  &  print- 
ing co.,  Boston,  1912.       $3.00. 

"A  bird's  eye  view  of  the  history  of  the  beg-inning-  and  growth  of 
the  industry  by  which  mankind  is  clothed."  Has  excellent  chap- 
ters on  the  beg-inning-  and  development  of  factory  system  in 
England  and  America  and  on  textile  inventors  and  inventions.  It 
interweaves  romance  with  scientific  and  economic  facts  in  such  a 
way  as  to  g-ive  appreciation  and  background.  Not  comparable  to 
any  other  book  on  the  subject. 

Wright,  C.  D.       Industrial  evolution  of  the  United  States.       Scrib- 
ners,  c  1895-7.       $1.25. 

ECONOMICS  OF  THE  MANUFACTURE,  AND  DISTRIBU- 
TION OF  CLOTH  AND  READY-TO>-WEAR 
";/-  CLOTHING 

SYSTEM   OF  MANUFACTURE   AND    WHOLESALE 
MERCHANDISING 

Albert,  S.  L.       Manufacture  of  men's  ready-made  clothing.     Ameri- 
can Exporter  Ap  '17  p  69-70:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ap-Je 
'17  p  108. 
Volume  and  importance  of  the  industry.     $1,000.000,000  per  annum. 

Bowers,  R.       What  happens  to  500,000,000  pounds  of  wool  a  year. 
Harp  W  55:17-18  My  20  '11. 

10 


Consumption  in  U.  S.,  wool  growing-  and  processes  of  manufacture. 
*Cherington,  P.  T.  The  wool  industry.  A.  W.  Shaw  Co.,  1916.  $2.50. 
Concentrates  on  the  hitherto  unexplored  territory  of  the  buying 
and  selling  of  wool  products,  describing  in  detail  the  function 
and  importance  of  wool  merchants,  selling  houses,  dry  goods,  job- 
bing enterprises  and  department  stores.  Chapters  on  technical 
processes,  imported  fabrics,  ready-to-wear  clothing  industries  and 
two  valuable  chapters  on  how  styles  aire  set  and  adapted  and 
their  influence  in  making  and  selling  cloth.  Written  for  students 
of  economics. 

Chittick,   James.       Silk  manufacturing   and  its   problems.       James 
Chittick,  New  York,   1913.       $2.50. 

Written  by  an  authority  from  the  manufacturer's  view  point,  pri- 
marily for  producers  and  distributors  of  silk  merchandise. 
Even  though  much  of  the  book  is  devoted  to  the  technique  of 
milling  operations  it  gives  the  consumer  an  inside  view  of  in- 
numerable complex  factors  involved  in  the  manufacture  and  dis- 
tribution of  textiles;  place  and  methods  of  advertising  and  mer- 
chandising are  emphasized  in  the  relation  of  their  final  disposal 
to  the  consumer.  The  book'  gives  the  reader  a  much  better 
knowledge  of  fabrics  and  their  costs. 

Copeland,  M.  T.       Cotton  manufacturing  industry  of  United  States. 
Harvard  Univ  press,  1912.       $2.00. 

Through  its  broad  scope  of  subject  matter  it  furnishes  the  requi- 
site background  for  the  teacher  and  advanced  student  in  the  eco- 
nomic study  of  the  development  of  textile  industry.  Sets  forth  the 
relative  position  of  the  American  cotton  manufacturing  industry 
by  means  of  an  international  comparison  of  geographical  factors, 
technical  methods,  labor  conditions,  and  industrial  and  commercial 
organizations. 

Dayton,  T.  S.      Story  of  silk.      Harp  W  55:12-3.  My  20  '11. 
From  silk    worm  through  manufacture. 

Hooper,    Luther.        Silk;    its    production    and    manufacture.      Lond. 
Pitman.      $.60. 

This   and    the    two    following    are    excellent    little  popular  English 
manuals,    giving    brief    introduction    to    the    industry,    describing 
it  from  raw  material   to  finished  product. 
*Hunter,  J.  A.       Wool.       Ed.  2.       Lond,  Pitman,  1915.     $.60. 

Moore,  A.  S.     Linen.     Lond.     Pitman,  n.  d.     $.60. 

Skidder,  H.  A.       How  they  sell  the  wool  at  Boston.      Amer  Sheep 
Breeder,    S  '17. 

Market  grades,  where  they  come  from  and  what  favor  they  meet 
with  buyer.  Fundamental  market  information. 

U.  S.  Bureau  of  the  census.      Census  of  manufactures,  1914:  cloth- 
ing.      1917.     22p. 

—       Cotton  manufactures,  1$18,     33p. 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods.       1918.     29p. 

Miscellaneous   textiles,    including  jute   and  linen  goods, 

flax,  dyeing  and  finishing  textiles.       1917.     25p. 

Wool  manufactures.       1918.     47p. 

11 


Vivian,  G.      Ready-made  clothes.      W  H  C  37:90  Mr  '10. 
How  they   are  manufactured. 

Note:  Some  of  the  best  information  on  textile  mills  and  ready- 
made  clothing  industries  may  be  found  in  the  reports  and 
bulletins  of  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  labor  statistics,  listed  under 
"Condition  of  the  workers." 

RETAIL  MERCHANDISING 

*Cooke,  J.  G.      What  is  a  bargain?      Delin  78:382  N  '11. 
Cutting  down  deliveries  and  return  privileges  at  department  stores. 

Lit  Dig  55:74  Jl  28  '17. 
Department  store  advertising.       Outlook  93:853-4  D  18  '09. 

The  lure  of  tea  rooms  and  other  unusual  attractions. 
Douglas,  A.  W.     Why  don't  more  women  trade  with  me?     System 

D  12  '17  p  466. 

Characteristics  of  the  woman  shopper. 
*Field,  C.  C.      Retail  buying.      Harper,  1917.       $1.25. 

Discusses   the   buying-   policies  of  department  and  chain   stores  as 

well    as    mail    order    houses;    pricing    and   stock    keeping;    display; 

selection   of  merchandise;    instruction   of  salespeople,  etc.     Author 

has  been  connected  with   such   stores  as  Marshall  Field   &   Co.  of 

Chicago,    and   James  McCreer'y   of   New   York.     Will   also    be   very 

informing  to  the  woman  shopper. 

*Fisk,  J.  W.       Retail   selling.       Harper,  1916.       $1.00. 

Said  to  be  a  "guide  to  the  best  modern  practice  in  retail  stores." 
While  written  exclusively  for  those  engaged  in  selling  goods  and 
undoubtedly  calculated  to  help  make  them  100%  alert  and  effi- 
cient in  that  respect,  we  cordially  commend  it  to  the  thoughtful  pe- 
rusal of  women  shoppers.  Certain  mental  characteristics  (?)  of 
women  to  whom  salesmen  must  cater  are  analyzed  and  methods 
of  advertising  and  display  calculated  to  sell  by  subtle  appeal  to 
the  senses  are  explained,  all  with  brutal  frankness.  Such  prac- 
tices of  exploiting  the  consumer  should  warn  her  away  f.rom  stores 
which  follow  them  and  lay  the  charge  of  extravagance  at  the 
door  of  the  merchant  rather  than  of  the  American  woman. 

Hollingworth,  H.  L.  Sex  differences  affecting  sales  to  men  and 
women.  Salesmanship  N  '17  p  362:  abstract  in  Busniess  Dig 
N  28  '17  p  386. 

Hotchkin,  Wm.  R.  Scrapping  of  old  retail  evils  will  benefit  ad- 
vertisers. Printers  Ink  Jl  26  '17  p  12:  abstract  in  Business 
Dig  Ag  8  '17  p  1165. 

Elimination  of  waste  in  merchandising  methods  will  mean  that 
retail  stores  will  no  longer  depend  on  their  "service"  to  custom- 
ers as  advertisement  but  will  do  straight  advertising  of  quality 
of  goods. 

Kelly,  F.  C.       Foolish  things  the  war  may  stop.       Am  M  84:19-20 
O  '17. 
Wastefulness,    including   a    study    of    department    store    deliveries. 

12 


Making  money  out  of  making  women  lovely.  Am  M  83:49-50.  My  '17. 
Life  story  of  a  successful  Fifth  ave.  milliner. 

*Nystrom,  P.  H.  Economics  of  retailing.  Ronald  press,  1915.  $2.00. 
A  broad  study  of  retail  distribution  by  a  teacher  of  economics,  for 
the  merchant  and  student.  Chapters  of  special  value  to  the  con- 
sumer, are  on  the  distribution  system;  the  consumer;  how  retail 
prices  are  fixed;  the  department  store,  the  chain  stare,  mail 
order  house;  price  maintenance  and  public  regulation.  Especially 
thoughtful  is  the  final  chapter  on  the  ideal  retailing  system  in 
which  immense  saving  is  admitted  possible  in  the  cost  of  distri- 
bution, ultimately  available  to  the  consumer. 

"Once-a-day  delivery"  is  urged  at  convention  of  National  retail 
dry  goods  association,  Washington,  Jl  '17:  abstract  in  Busi- 
ness Dig  Jl  25  '17  p  992. 

*Retailing  reforms  that  make  way  for  more  advertising.  Printers 
Ink  26  '17  p  99-100:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ag  8  '17  p  1125. 
Reforms  discussed  at  conference  of  Commercial  Economy  Board 
with  retailers.  Restrictions  on  store  deliveries  and  curtailment 
of  the  return  privilege.  To  offset  discontinuance  of  elaborate  ser- 
vice there  must  be  more  advertising  and  sale  of  nationally  ad- 
vertised brands. 

*Tarbell,  I.  M.       Waste  service  in  shop  deliveries:  the  Commercial 
economy  board  appeals  to  the  housewives  for  needed  reform. 
Housewives  M  F  '18  p  19-20. 
Why  shoe-prices  are  high.      Lit  Dig  54:154-5  Ja  20  '17. 

TRAINING  SALESMEN  IN  KNOWLEDGE  OF  GOODS 

Hyde,  G.  M.       College  for  retail  clerks:  university  extension  work 
for  the  man  behind  the  counter.      World's  W  28:345-51  Jl  '13. 
By  the  University  of  Wisconsin,  under  P.  H.  Nystrom. 
*Norton,  H.  R.       Department  store  education.       U  S  Bur  of  Ed  B 
1917  No.  9.  •;•• 

Training  methods  developed  at  Boston  school  of  salesmanship 
under  Lrucinda  W.  Prince,  including  description  of  courses  in  tex- 
tiles, color,  and,  design,  and  merchandise  with  an  account  of 
educational  work  in  department  stores.  Edition  exhausted.  Try 
Women's  educational  and  industrial  union,  Boston,  264  Boylston 
street.  $.25  and  postage. 

Prince,  L.  W.  Training  for  efficiency  in  department  stores.  Book- 
man 43:190-3  Ap  '16. 

Towsley,  W.  B.  Training  in  salesmanship.  Nat  Educ  Assn  Pro- 
ceed 1912:1043-6. 

Style 

Note:  The  subject  of  style  is  here  discussed  under  Merchandising 
where  it  originates  and  in  which  it  has  a  very  special  func- 
tion as  a  stimulant  to  trade. 

Agitation  for  American  fashions.       Cur  Opin  54:251-3  Mr  '13. 
*Archer,  William.       Making  of  Paris  fashions.       McClure's  42:31-47 

13 


JR.  '14. 

*Cherington,  P.  T.  The  wool  industry.  A.  W.  Shaw  Co.  1916.  $2.50. 
Very  important  chapters  on  how  styles  are  set  and  adopted  and 
their  influence  in  making  and  selling-  cloth.  Should  be  studied  by 
every  consumer. 

*Clerget,  P.       Economic   and  social   role   of  fashion.       Smithsonian 

Institution  Kept  1913:755-65. 

By  a  French  teacher  at  Lyons,  France.  Authoritative  and  interesing. 
Gushing,  C.  P.       Narrow  skirt.       Ind  72:655  Mr  28  '12. 
Dauncey,  E.  C.       Functions  of  fashion.      Contemp  99:603-7  My  '11. 

Same  Liv  age  269:790-4  Je  24  '11. 

Argues  that   shifting-  fashion  is  the  note  of  progress,  a  stimulant 

to   trade  and  force  in   civilization. 

Fashion  notes.       Scrib  M  56:681-2  N  '14. 

Emblem  of  prosperity  and  progress.     Murmurs  of  revolt   at  hand. 
*German  repudiation  of  Paris  fashions.      Lit  Dig  54:246-8  F  3  '17. 

For  political 'and  economic  effects. 
*Groth,  C.  D.      Truth  about  Paris  fashions.      L  H  J  29:8  Mr  '12. 

Effort  of  Paris  to  keep  the  leadership  in  fashion. 
*How  business  men  forecast  the  future  demand  of  the  public.     Cur 

Opin  59:129-30  Ag  '15. 
*Inch  of  dress  costs  $10,000,000  in  shoes.      World's  W  33:589  Ap  '17. 

Cost  of  style. 
*Judgment  of  Paris.       Nation  96:51-2  Ja   16  '13. 

Plea    for   American    fashion   and   freedom    firom   the   domination    of 

Paris. 
*King,  E.   M.       War,   women  and  American   clothes.       Scrib   M  62: 

592-8  N  '17. 

Work   of  the   Natural  History  Museum,   N.   Y.   in  inspiring-  Ameri- 
can designs. 
McManus,  Blanche.       American  woman  abroad.      Dodd,  Mead,  1911. 

$2.00. 

Chap,   on  men   dressmakers   of   Paris  and   London. 

New  Paris  fashions  shown  on  living  models;  by  Spectator.       Out- 
look 105:6f  3-4  N  22  '13. 

Paris  fashions  and  American  women.       Craftsman  17:464-7  Ja  '10. 
*Ross,  E.  A.      Social  psychology.       Macmillan,  1908.      $1.50. 

Chap.   6,   an  excellent  analysis  of   the  psychology  of  fashion. 
Young,  F.       "The  fashion  is  always  beautiful."      Liv  age  280:119-21 

Ja  10  '14. 

Beautiful  to  us  while  it  lasts,  a  symbol  of  the  contemporary,  of  the 
present  hours,  of  life  itself.  Danger  of  confusing  ideas  of  real 
beauty. 

Advertising 

Note:      The    following    brief   references    are   suggestive    as    to    the 
power  of  advertising  appeal  in  the  clothing  business. 

14 


Blanchard,  F.  L.  Advertising  gives  kid  leather  a  quick  entry  into 
changing  market.  Printers  Ink  My  22  '17  p  423:  abstract  in 
Business  Dig  Ja-Mr  '17  p  423. 

Kirchbaum,  David.  Advertising  develops  industry  in  half  the* 
time.  Printers  Ink  Je  7  '17  p  90-4:  abstract  in  Business  Dig 
Ap-Je  '17  p  108. 

How  it  has  developed  manufacture  of  men's  ready-made  clothing 
in  contrast  to  meagar  growth  of  women's  clothing-  industry  with- 
out it. 

Making  a  public  trend  the  advertising's  point  of  contact.       Printers 
Ink  Mr  8  '17  p  3-9,  94-101:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ja-Mr  '17 
p  114. 
Using1  the  "physical  culture  fad"   to  advertise  corsets. 

Making  the  trade-name  fit  the  particular  appeal  of  the  line.  Print- 
ers Ink  F  1  '17:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ja-Mr  '17  p  452. 

McCann,  Edna.  Converting  women  workers  to  overalls.  Amer 
Industries  My  '18  p  18:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Mr  27  '18 
p  406. 

New  names  hurry  up  sales  of  goods  that  "stick."  Printers  Ink 
Ja  24  '18  p  57:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  F  27  '18  p  291. 

Stern,,  E.  J.  This  is  how  "Maid  Marion"  dresses  are  merchandised. 
Advertising  and  Selling  S  '17  p  26:  abstract  in  Business  Dig 
O  17  '17  p  130. 

Sweet,  Orr  &  Co.'s  preliminary  campaign  to  exploit  new  use  of 
overalls  for  women.  Printers  Ink  F  1  '17  p  45-9:  abstract  in 
Business  Dig  Ap-Je  '17  p  14. 

How  advertising  held  Heatherbloom's  place  five  years.  Advertis- 
ing and  Selling  S  '17  p  9:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  O  24  '17 
p  174. 

CONDITION  OF  THE  WORKERS  IN  MILLS,  FAC- 
TORIES AND  STORES 
GENERAL 

Abbott,  Edith.      Women  in  industry.      Appleton,  1910.      $2.00. 

Readable  study  of  women  as  a  factor  in  American  economic  his- 
tory. Relates  chiefly  to  textile  and  clothing  industry,  with  chap- 
ter on  ready-made  clothing. 

Bos  worth,  L.  M.  Living  wage  of  women  workers:  a  study  of  in- 
comes and  expenditure  of  450  women  workers  in  the  city  of 
Boston.  Ann  Am  Acad  37:  sup  90p  My  '11  (p  65-75  on  cloth- 
ing of  the  working  girl.) 

*Bryner,   Edna.       Limitations   and   possibilities    of   industrial    train- 
ing for  women.       Ind  Arts  M  6:89-91  Mr  '17. 

Big  task  of  vocational  training  for  women  in  the  sewing  trades 
in  which  there  are  800,000,  1/10  of  U.  S.  working  women.  Very 
little  being  done. 

15 


Dorr,  R.  C.  What  eight  million  women  want.  Small,  Maynard, 
1910.  $2.00. 

Chap.  5.  Women's  demand  on  the  rulers  of  industry-Consumer's 
league.  Chap.  6.  Making1  over  the  factory  from  the  inside. 

Henry,  Alice-.  The  trade  union  woman.  Appleton,  1915.  $1.50. 
Account  of  the  movement  for  and  by  -women's  trade  unionism  in 
U.  S.  Especially  chap,  on  "the  huge  strike." 

*Kelley,   Florence.       Modern  industry.       Longmans,   1914.       $1.00. 

Four  vitally  suggestive  lectures,  by  Secretary  of  National  Con. 
sumer's  League,  clearly  showing  the  disintegrating  effect  of  mod- 
ern industry  upon  family  life  and  upon  health;  and  the  new  edu- 
cation and  morality  demanded  in  relation  to  the  industrial  system. 
Should  be  read  by  every  consumer. 

McLean,  A.M.  Women  workers  and  society.  McClurg,  c  1917-18.  $.50. 
Adapted  for  reading  and  discussion  in  clubs  of  less  highly  trained 
women  and  girls.  To  be  commended  for  its  discussion  of  indus- 
trial evils  and  remedies. 

Mussey,  H.  R.,  ed.  Economic  position  of  women.  Proceed  Acad 
Polit  Sci  in  N.  Y.  City  1.-1-19S  '11. 

Papers  by  prominent  women  investigators  on  the  historical  de- 
velopment of  women's  work  in  the  U.  S.;  problems  of  women  in 
industry;  and  social  action,  with  bibliography  by  Carola  Woerish- 
offer. 

The  protection  of  women;  some  laws  and  lawsuits,  a  review.     Out* 
look  106:670-3  My  28  '14. 
Hours,  wages  and  conditions  of  labor. 

*tU.  S.  Bureau  of  labor.  Report  on  condition  of  women  and  child 
wage-earners  in  the  United  States.  19  vols.  Washington, 
U  S  Sup  of  docs.  1910-12. 

For  this  federal  investigation,  the  first  ever  made  in  America, 
Congress  appropriated  $300,000,  at  the  instance  of  Miss  Mary  Mc- 
Dowell, then  chairman  of  the  Women's  Trade  Union  League.  Study 
was  made  of  labor  force,  living  and  working  conditions,  wages, 
processes  of  the  occupations  involved  and  considerable  information 
is  included  on  the  industries  themselves.  Volumes  of  special  inter- 
est are: 

Vol.     1.    The   cotton  industry. 

Vol.     2 .    Men's    ready-made    clothing. 

Vol.     4.    The  silk  industry. 

Vol.     5.   Wage  earning  women  in  stores   and  factories. 

Vol.     9.    History  of  women  in  industry  in  the  United  States. 

Vol.  10.    History  of  women  in  the  trade  unions. 

Vol.  12.    Employment  in  laundries. 

Vol.  16.    Family   budgets  of  typical  cotton  mill  workers. 
Note:     A  summary  of  the  19  vols.  has  appeared  as  Bulletin  175  oj 
the  Bureau  of  labor  statistics. 

Hours 

Brenting,  F.  O.  vs.  the  State  of  Oregon.  The  case  for  the  shorter 
working  day,  Supreme  court  of  the  U.S.  Oct.  1915:  brief  for 

16 


the  defendant  in  error.  2  vols.  Reprinted  by  National  consum- 
ers' league.  289  Fourth  Ave.,  N.  Y.  City. 

A  valuable  mine  of  accurate,  pertinent  information  on  all  phases 
of  the  question  of  limiting-  the  hours  of  labor  in  industries. 

Wages 

Andres,  I.  O.  Minimum  wage  legislation.  Albany,  N.  Y.  J,  B. 
Lyon  Co.  1914.  Reprinted  from  the  3rd  report  of  the  N.  Y. 
State  factory  investigation  commission. 

A  pamphlet  presenting  the  main  facts  concerning'  the  enactment 
and  operation  of  the  minimum  wage  laws  -with  some  representa- 
tive opinions  on  their  operation  and  effect,  and  a  select  bibliography. 

Foster,,  W.  F.  ed.  The  social  emergency.  Houghton  Mifflin,  1914. 
$1.35. 

Chap.  5  on  economic  phases  (relation  of  low  wages  to  women  and 
the  social  evil.) 

Nystrom,  P.  H.       Economics  of  retailing.  Ronald  press,  1915.  $2.00. 

Chap.   7  on  the  wages   of  salespeople. 

*Ryan,  J.  A.      A  living  wage,  its  ethical  and  economic  aspect.      Mac* 
millan,  1906. 

U.    S.    Bureau   of  labor  statistics,   Bulletin   167.       Minimum   wage 
legislation;  by  C.  H.  Verrill.     1915. 
History,  texts  and  operations  of  the  laws,  with  bibliography. 

TEXTILE  MILLS 

*Lauck,  W.  J.       Condition  of  the  New  England  woolen  mill  operat- 
ive.     Survey  27:1772-4  F  17  '12. 

Condition  at  Lawrence  at  variance  with  claim  that  unrestricted 
immigration  is  an  advantage  and  protective  tariff  a  necessity  to 
the  American  wage  earner., 

Moses,  K.  Other  side  of  the  cotton  mill.  Outlook  113:977-84  Ag 
23  '16. 

Story  of  the  revolution  effected  in  a  N.  Carolina  town  by  a  school 
for    textile    operatives    and    owner's   improvements.      Shows    possi- 
bilities.    Illustrated. 
*Sherwood,  J.       Cotton  mill.       Forum  57:329-48  Mr  '17.  . 

Effect  on  the  worker. 
Sumner,  M.  B.      Broad-silk  weavers  of  Paterson.      Survey  27:1932-5 

Mr  16  '12. 
U.S.  Bureau  of  labor  statistics.      Bulletin  190.      Wages  and  hours 

in  the  cotton,  woolen  and  silk  industries,  1907-14  '16. 
*tU.   S.   Bureau  of  labor.     Report  on  conditions  of  women  and  child 
wage-earners  in  the  United  States.     Vols.  1,  4,  9,  16. 

Child  Labor 

Note:  For  history  of  the  agitation  against  this  evil  in  the  textile 
industries  see  the  bulletins  and  reports  of  the  National  Child 
labor  committee,  105  E.  22nd  St.  N.  Y.  City.  The  recent  federal 
child  labor  law  which  barred  from  interstate  commerce  the 

17 


products  of  mills,  factories  and  work  shops  made  where  child- 
ren are  employed,  was  declared  unconstitutional  by  the  Supreme 
court,  June,  1918. 

Child  workers  in  North  Carolina  cotton  mills.  Survey  33:573  F  27  '15. 

Devine,  E.  T.  The  new  view  of  the  child.  Ann  Am  Acad  32:  sup 
4-10  Jl  '05. 

McKelway,  A.  J.       Cotton  mill,  the  Herod  among  industries.       Ann 

Am  Acad  38:  sup  39-52  '11. 

*Priddy,  Al.  Through  the  mill:  life  story  of  a  mill  boy.  Pilgrim 
press,  1911.  $1.35. 

An  autobiography.     First  appeared  in  the  Outlook. 
CLOTHING  INDUSTRY 

Barnum,  G.  How  industrial  peace  has  been  brought  about  in  the 
clothing  trade.  Ind  73:777-81  O  3  '12. 

Bryner,  Edna.  The  garment  trades.  Cleveland  foundation.  Sur- 
vey committee,  Cleveland  education  survey  reports,,  1916.  vol. 
19.  $.25. 

*Clark,  S.  A.  &  Wyatt,  E.  Shirtwaist-makers  and  their  strike.  Mc- 
Clure's  36:70-86  N  '10. 

Clothing  industry.       Sci  Am  S  78:266-7  O  24  '14. 

Piocesses  and  implements  used  in  the  industry,  with  advice  as  to 
sanitary  and  safety  devices  which  should  be  provided  to  insure 
workers  ag-ainst  accidents  and  disease. 

Elmmet,  Boris.  Trade  agreements  in  the  women's  clothing  indus- 
tries in  New  York  City.  Monthly  Rev  Bur  Labor  Statistics  D 
'17  p  19-39. 

Goodman,  P.  &  Ueland,  E.  Shirtwaist  trade.  J  Pol  Econ  18:816- 
28  D  '10. 

Hutchinson,  W.     Hygienic  aspects  of  the  shirtwaist  strike.       Sur- 
vey 23:541-50  Ja  22  '10. 
*Lemlich,   Clara.       The  inside  of  the   shirtwaist  factory.       Good  H 

My  '12  p  367, 
•   An  appeal  to  the  women  who  weair  by  one  of  the  strike  leaders. 

Mailly,  W.  Working  girls'  strike;  the  shirtwaist  makers  of  New 
York.  Ind  67:1416-20  D  23  '09. 

Merriman,  C.  Searchlight  turned  on  child  labor  and  the  tailoring 
trades.  Survey  32:303-4  Je  13  '14. 

Moskowitz,  H.  Joint  board  of  sanitary  control  in  the  cloak,  suit 
and  skirt  industry  of  New  York  City.  Ann  Am  Acad  44:39-58 
N  '12. 

Protocol  meeting  the  cost  of  living.      Survey  38:249  Je  9  '17. 

Agreement  between  Hart,  Schaffner  &  Marx  and  the  Amalgamated 
g-arment  workers. 
*Solution  of  industrial  peace.      Ind  74:273-5  F  6  '13. 

Explanation  of  the  peace  protocol  and  hope  that  the  entire  women's 
wear  industry  will  be  under  it. 

18 


U.  S.  Bureau  of  labor  statistics: 

Bulletin  98;  by  C.  H.  Winslow.  Conciliation,  arbitration  and 
sanitation  in  the  cloak,  suit  and  skirt  industry  in  New  York. 
1912. 

Text  and  description  of  provisions  of  the  peace  protocol  signed  in 
1910  between  50,000  garment  workers  and  manufacturers  in  New 
York  City. 

Bulletin  135.  Wages  and  hours  of  labor  in  the  cigar  and 
clothing  industries,  1911-12,  1913. 

Use  for  description  of  the*  principal  operations  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  men's  clothing1. 

Bulletin  144.     Industrial  court  of  the  cloak,  suit  and  skirt  in- 
dustry of  New  York  City:  by  C.  H.  Wilson.    1914. 
Report  of   the  Board   appointed   under  term  of   the  peace  protocol 
for  the  adjustment  of  labor  grievances. 

*Bulletin  145.  Conciliation  arbitration  and  sanitation  in  the 
dress  and  waist  industry  of  N.  Y.  City. 

Report  of  the  peaceful  settlement  under  the  protocol  of  1913  be- 
tween 36,000  dress  and  waist  makers  of  N.  Y.  City.  Includes  de- 
scriptions and  statistids  of  the  industry  and  its  occupations. 
Bulletin  146.  Wages  and  regularity  of  employment  and  stan- 
dardization of  piece  rates  in  the  dress  and  waist  industries, 
New  York  City,  1914. 

Includes  description  of  the  various  processes  used  in  the  dress 
and  waist  industry. 

Bulletin  147.  Wages  and  regularity  of  employment  in  the 
cloak,  suit  and  skirt  industry.  1915. 

Yearly  earnings  in  N.  Y.  and  Boston,  with  descriptive  analysis 
of  occupations. 

Bulletin  183.  Regularity  of  employment  in  the  women's  ready- 
to-wear  garment  industries.  1915. 

Bulletin  198.  Collective  agreements  in  the  men's  clothing  in- 
dustry; by  C.  H.  Winslow.  1916. 

Gives  an  account  of  how  differences  between  workers  and  em- 
ployers have  been  settled  in  the  men's  clothing  industry  which  does 
not  have  the  protocol  arrangement  under  which  the  women's  cloth- 
ing industries  are  conducted. 

U.  S.  Bureau  of  labor.       Report  on  conditions  of  women  and  child 
wage-earners  in  the  United  States.       19   vols.       Washington, 
1910-12. 
Vol.   2.     Men's  iready-made   clothing. 

Van  Kleeck,  M.     Women  and  children  who  make  men's  clothes.  Sur- 
vey 26:65-9  Ap  1  '11. 
Abstract  and  review  of  Labor  report,  above. 

Where  union  and  employers  cooperate.       Survey  37:277-8  D  9  '16. 
Abstract  of  report  of  Joint  Board  of  sanitary  control. 
Home  labor  and  sweat  shops 

Carlton,  Frank.      History  and  problems  of  organized  labor.     Heath, 

19 


1911.      $2.00. 

Chap.  12  on  the  sweated  industries. 

Dorr,  R.  C.       Child  who  toils  at  home.      Hampton  28:183-8  Ap  '12. 

Goldmark,  J.        Tenement  home  work  and  the  courts.       Survey  35: 
612-13  F  19  '16. 

Goldmark,  P.       "Art  work  in  the  tenements."      Survey  26:114-5  Ap 

15  '11. 

*Hall,  G.  A.  Home  manufacturing  and  poverty.  Survey  27:1758-9 
F  17  '12. 

Industrial  home  work  in  Massachusetts.      Dept.  of  research  Women's 
educational  and  industrial  union,  Boston,  1915.      $.80. 
A  study  of  the  evil  of  home  -work  as  a  phase  of  modern  industrial- 
ism,  analysis  of  its    condition   and  detailed   report   of   home   work 
in  the  wearing-  apparel  industry,  with  bibliography. 

Industrial  home  work  in  Massachusetts.      Am  Econ  R  5:92-4  Mr  '15. 

Not    so    serious   in   its   menace    to    public    health.      Economic   evils 

in  Mass,  aire  low  wages,  seasonal  employment  and  child  labor. 
*Kelley,  Florence.      Problem  of  sweating  in  America.     Chaut  60:414- 

21  N  '10. 
Odencrantz,  L.  G.      Why  Jennie  hates  flowers.      World  Outl  3:12-13 

O  '17. 

Story  illustrating-  Italian  home  work  in  N.  Y.  City. 
O'Leary,  I.  P.       Department  store  occupations.       Vol.  2  Cleveland 

foundation.       Survey  committee.       Cleveland  education  survey 

reports .      1916.      $ .  25 . 
Sergeant,  E.   S.       Toilers   of  the  tenements.       McClure's  35:231-48 

Jl  '10. 

Where  the  beautiful  things  of  the  great  shops  are  made. 
Stone,  N.  I.      Sweatshop,  root  of  all  garment  trade  evils.       Survey 

36:499-501  Ag  12  '16. 
U.   S.   Bureau  of  labor.       Report  on  condition  of  women  and  child 

workers  in  the  U.  S.  vol  2,  Men's  ready-made  clothing. 

Chapters    5    and   6   on   the   sweating    system. 

Van  Kleeck,  Mary.      Artificial  flower  makers.    Russell  Sage  Founda- 
tion, N.  Y.     1913.      $1.50. 

An  investigation  into   the  flower-making  industry  which  "offers   a 

concrete   illustration   of  large  industrial  problems,   seasonal  work, 

child  labor,  home  work  system."  etc. 
Van  Kleeck,  Mary.      Child  labor  in  home  industries.    Ann  Am  Acad 

35  sup  145-9  Mr  '10. 
Watson,  E.  C.       Home  work  in  the  tenements.       Survey  24:772-81 

F4  '11. 

Consumers'  League 

*Baker,  N,  D.  Industrial  Liberty  in  war  time;  address  at  annual 
meeting,  Consumer's  league,  1917.  289  Fourth  Ave.,  N.  Y. 
City.  8p. 

20 


Constitution  of   the  National  consumer's  league.       Ann  Am  Acad 

36:  sup  7-12  S  '10. 

*Kelley,  Florence.    Twenty-five  years  of  the  Consumer's  league  move- 
ment.      Survey  35:212-14  N  27  '15. 
Leupp,  C.  D.       Not  one  minute  to  lose.      W  H  C  Je  '13. 

Work  of  the  Consumer's  League  and  how  to  take  it  up  in  a  town. 
*Sanville,   F.    L.        Story   of   the   Consumer's  league.       Outlook  98: 

113-9  My  20  '11. 
/     Uniforms  from  the  sweatshops.      Survey  38:519  S  15  '17. 

Note:     All  publications  of  the  National  consumer's  league  should 
be  valuable.    Address  289  4th  Ave.  N.  Y.  City. 

Protocol  agreement,  1910— date 

*Cohen,  J.   H.       Law  and  order  in  industry:   five  years  experience. 
Macmillan,  1916.      $1.50. 

The  authoritative 'account  of  the  workings  of  the  protocol  or  col- 
lective bargaining  between  employers  and  garment  workers.  Ad- 
vocates the  white  protocol  label  for  all  ready-to-wear  clothes  as 
indication  to  consumers  of  their  production  under  sanitary  con- 
ditions and  fair  treatment  as  to  wages,  hours,  etc. 
Cohen,  J.  H.  Control  of  sanitary  standards.  National  confer- 
ence of  charities  and  corrections.  Proceedings,,  1912  p  429-33. 

*Cohen,   J.    H.        Control  of   sanitary   standards.       Survey   29:631-2 
F  1  '13.      Also  "The  white  protocol"  p  537-9. 
Suggests  the  "white  label"   for  .ready-to-wear  clothes. 

RETAIL  STORES 
Butler,  E.   B.       Saleswomen  in  mercantile  stores.       Charities  pub. 

com.,  1912.       $1.08. 

A  study  made  in  1909  of  working  conditions,  wages,  etc.  in  Balti- 
more. 

Christmas  curse.       Cent  91:312-13  D  '15. 
*Emerson,  A.       Behind  the  scenes  in  a  department  store.       Outlook 

109:450-5  F  24  '15. 

Welfare   work  of  an  exceptionally   high  quality  carried  on   in  one 

N.  Y.   store. 
Hopkins,   M.    A.     Girls  behind  the  counter.       Colliers   48:16-7   My 

16  '12.  (Stories.) 
*Inner  workings  of  a  department  store.    Outlook  110:278-82  Je  2  '15. 

Welfare  work  challenged  by  need  of  better  wages. 
McConnell,    M.        Study    of   the   working  conditions   of    women   in 

department  stores.       Am  City  14:273  Mr  '16. 

Abstract   of   an   extensive  study   made  by  the   Consumer's   League 

of  eastern   Pennsylvania  of   Philadelphia  wages  and  working  con- 
•    ditions. 
Milholland-Boissevain,   I.        Does   it  pay  the  store?       Harp  W   58: 

12-4  My  30  '14. 

To  allow  unsatisfactory  conditions. 

21 


O'Leary,  I.  P.  Department  store  occupations.  Cleveland  foun- 
dation. Survey  committee.  Cleveland  education  survey  re- 
ports,, vol  11,  1916.  $.25. 

Saturday  closing.       Outlook  107:330-1  Je  13  '14. 
In  New  York. 

Swartz,  N.  Commercial  organizations  can  aid  the  early  shopping 
movement.  Am  City  13:406-7  N  '15. 

U.  S.  Bureau  of  labor  statistics.  Bulletin  160.  Hours,  earnings 
and  conditions  of  labor  in  Indiana  mercantile  establishments 
and  garment  factories;  by  M.  L.  Obenauer  &  W.  Valentine. 
1914. 

U.  S.  Bureau  of  labor  statistics.  Bulletin  182.  Unemployment 
among  women  in  department  and  other  retail  stores  of  Bos- 
ton. 1916. 

Van    Kleeck,   M.        Working    conditions   in   New   York    department 
stores.      Survey  31:50-1  O  11  '13. 
Criticism   of   National  Civic   Federation   report. 

DRESSMAKING 

Bryner,  Edna.  Dressmaking  and  millinery.  Cleveland  foundation, 
Survey  committee.  Cleveland  education  survey  reports,  vol 
22,  1916.  $.25. 

Tuttle,  M.  Sewing  in  other  women's  homes.  L  H  J  34:20  Ja  '17. 
What  it  means  to  be  a  seamstress  at  $1.50  per  day  and  how,  by 
adding  executive  ability  and  skill,  such  a  woman  established  an  In- 
dependent shop  and  became  successful.  A  life  story. 
*U.  S.  Bureau  of  labor  statistics.  Bulletin  193.  Dressmaking  as 
a  trade  for  women  in  Massachusetts;  by  May  Allison.  1912. 
Evolution  of  the  trade  in  the  U.  S.;  the  trade  of  today;  and  indus- 
trial conditions  in  it,  with  bibliography. 

LAUNDRIES 

*Ainslie-Walker,  J.    T.        Disease  from  public   laundries.       Good  H 

Je  '13  p  826-8. 

*Clark,  S.  A.  &  Wyatt,  E.       Women  laundry  workers  in  New  York. 
McClure's  36:401-14  F  '11. 

Dederer,  E.  C.  Protection  needed  for  laundry  workers.  Survey 
4:548-9  S  18  '15. 

Goldmark,  J.       Waste.      Survey  31:273-4  D  6  '13. 

Waste  in  human  energy  and  detriment  to  health.  Based  on  Labor 
Bulletin  122,  Employment  of  women  in  power  laundries  in  Mil- 
waukee. 

Pratt,  H.  W.  Laundry  problems  in  N.  Y.  City.  J  Home  Econ 
O  '12  p  337-44. 

U.  S.  Bureau  of  labor.  Report  on  condition  of  women  and  child 
wage-earners  in  the  U.  S.  19  vols.  Washington  '10-'12. 
Vol.  12,  Employment  in  laundries. 

22 


THE  CONSUMER  AND  REACTION  OF  MOD- 
ERN METHODS  OF  MER- 
CHANDISING 

ECONOMICS  OF  SPENDING 

Blackmar,    F.    W.        Economics.       Macmillan,    c    1900-07.       $1.40. 

Chap,  on  consumption. 

*Billings,  E.  C.       Brains  and  buying.      Atlan  111:768-70  Je  '13. 
Bruere,,   W.    B.    &   Bruere,   R.    W.        Increasing   home    efficiency. 

Macmillan,  c  1911-12.       $1.50. 

Chap.  10  on  training-  the  consumer;  first  printed  in  Outlook,  S  7  '12 

p  29-34. 

Bullock,  C.   J.  ed.       Selected  readings  in  economics.       Ginn,  1907. 
$2.2S. 
Chap.  8  on  human  wants  and  the  theory  of  utility. 

Devine,  E.  T.  Economic  function  of  women.  Columbia  Univ 
Teachers  Col  Tech  Ed  B  1  O  8  '10.  $.10. 

Ely,  R.  I.  &  Wicker,  G.  R.       Elementary  principles  of  economics. 
Macmillan,   1908,       $1.00. 
Chap  on  economy  of  spending-  and  saving-. 

Fetter,  F.  A.  Principles  of  economics.  Century,  c  1904.  $2.00. 
Chaps,  on:  Economic  motives,  -waste  and  luxury,  reaction  of  con- 
sumption on  production. 

*Hollingsworth,  H.  I.  Sex  differences  affecting  sales  to  men  and 
women.  Salesmanship  N  '17  p  362:  abstract  in  Business  Dig 
N  28  '17  p  386. 

Proportion  of  buying-  done  by  women  and  specific   selling-  appeals. 
*Laughlin,,  J.   L.       Women  and  wealth.       Scrib  M  49:199-206  F  '11, 

Richardson,  B.  J.  The  woman  who  spends.  Ed  2  rev.  Whit- 
comb  &  Barrows,  c  1904-10.  $1.00. 

Seager,    H.    R.        Principles    of    economics.       Holt,    1913.       $2.25. 

Chaps  on:     Consumption  and  values  in  use. 

*Veblen,  T.  B.  Theory  of  the  leisure  class.  Macmillan,  c  1899. 
$2.00. 

EXTRAVAGANCE 
(See  also  Style,  under  Retailing) 

Note:  According  to  the  1914  census  reports,  the  total  value  of 
textiles  and  clothing  products  manufactured  in  the  U.  S. 
runs  up  to  about  $3,000,000,000  annually.  Merchandising  these 
products  probably  doubles  the  cost  to  the  consumer  so  that 
total  amount  spent  for  domestic  products  alone  in  this  coun- 
try is  between  five  and  six  billion  dollars.  Unfortunately 
there  do  not  seem  to  be  available  statistics  of  total  of  family 
living  expenditures  which  would  enable  one  to  estimate  the 
percent  clothing  has  to  the  national  expenditure.  As  for  in- 

23 


dividual  budgets  a  reliable  conservative  estimate  suggests 
15%  for  clothes  as  necessary  for  efficient  dressing;  while  men 
engaged  in  selling  place  the  actual  expenditures  in  this  coun- 
try as  high  as  42%.* 

*Burns,  Shirley.       The  insidiousness  of  debt.      Forum  58:237-46:  ab- 
stract in  Lit  Dig  S  1  '17  p  52-3. 

*Coolidge,  M.  R.       Why  women  are  so.      Holt,  1912.      $1.50. 

Chaps  on  the  pursuit  of  dress;  character  and  clothes.  A  sympa- 
thetic but  clear  sighted  and  vigorous  study  of  traditional  ideals 
and  habits  of  woman  and  their  reaction  upon  her  behavior  -with 
intent  to  discover  a  larger  outlook  for  a  truly  womanly  type — as 
opposed  to  mere  femininity. 

Heddeman,    Baroness    Franciska    von.        Eixtravagance    of    women's 

war  clothes.       Forum  59:403-10  Ap  '18. 
Lessening  your  denominator.       Scrib  M  55:533-4  Ap  '14. 
Post,    Emily.        Cost   of   women's    clothes.       Everybody's    22:754-64 

Je  '10. 

Among  women  of  high  incomes. 
*Tarbell,  I.  M.       Extravagance  in  dress.      L  H  J  30:26  My  '13. 

*Withers,   Hartley.       Poverty  and   waste.       London,   John    Murray, 
1917. 

A  lucid  exposition  of  how  the  consumer  can  reduce  poverty  among: 
the  workers  by  spending  less  on  luxuries  and  living  a  more  sensi- 
ble life  in  accordance  with  standards  based  on  real  wants  instead 
of  mimicry  of  the  extravagance  of  others. 

SHOPPING  HABITS 

Bennett-Thompson.       Woman   who  pays  the  highest  price.       Harp 
W  58:27-8  F  21  '14. 

Busbey,  K.   G.       Home  life  in  America.       Macmillan,  1910.     $2.00. 

Chap,  on  shops  and  shoppers. 

Maxwell,  W.-      Over-the-counter  sales.       Colliers  52:19-20  N  15  '13. 
*Ninety-four  housewives  tell  why  they  buy.       System  28:481-9  N  '15. 

Nystrom,  P.  H.       Economics  of  retailing.  Ronald  press,  1915  $2.00. 

Chap.  3  on  the  consumer. 

*Riegel,  E.    C.       Break  the  "return  goods"  habit.       Housewives  M 
10:12  Jl  '17. 

*Savage,,  C.       Buying  that  isn't  buying.       Good  H  63:29-33  Jl  '16. 

Returned  goods  evil. 
*Strunsky,   S.       Psychology   of   shopping.       Harp   134:426-32   F  '17, 

Same  cond.  Cur  Opin  62:346  My  '17. 

Wells,  Carolyn.       In  the  department  store.       Cent  82:314-5  Je  '11. 

Monolog. 
*Why  women  buy.       System  28:585-91  D  '15. 

24 


MODERATION  IN  STYLE  AND  FREEDOM  IN  INDI- 
VIDUAL CHOICE  OF  DRESS 

*Advertising  effect  on  style  continuation  and  simplification.  Print- 
ers Ink  S  6  '17  p  137-8:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  S  19  '17  p  1513. 
Garment  manufacturers  and  Retail  clothiers  assoc.  comply  with 
suggestion  of  Commercial  Economy  Board. 

Bok,    E.        Remedy    for    the   present    wave    of   indecent   dressing. 
Collier's  52:11  Ag  30  '13. 

Cause,    style   commercialized.      Plea    for    encouragement  of   Ameri- 
can  industries  and  economic  independence. 
*Gerould,  K.   F.       Dress  and  the  woman.       Atlan  108:617-24  N  '11. 

Ideas  of  a  plain  country  woman.      L  H  J  31:26  Ag  '14. 
An  appeal  to  do   something  practical  regarding   dress. 
*Johnson,  H.  L.       Women  and  clothes;  what  the  clubs  are  doing  in 
the  matter  of  standardization.      J  Home  Econ  9:127-36  Mr  '17. 

Is  a  nation's  character  revealed  in  its  dress?       Craftsman  25:622^ 
5  Mr  '14. 

Mason,  M.  H.       Tyranny  of  fashion  in  war  time.       19th  Cent  81: 

671-8  Mr  '17;  same  Liv  age  293:73-9  Ap  14  '14. 
*Putnam,  N.    W.       Fashion  and  feminism.       Forum  52:580-4  O  '14. 

Real  cost  of  dressing  etc.       Atlan  115:138-42  Ja  '15. 

Slaves  of  this  century.      Craftsman  26:120-1  Ap  '14. 

Standardized  clothes  are  coming.      Lit  Dig  55:64  D  15  '17. 

SCIENCE  AND  THE  FUNDAMENTAL  PRIN- 
CIPLE OF  CLOTHES 

HOW  TO  KNOW  FABRICS 

tAshenhurst,  A.  R.  Practical  treatise  on  weaving  and  designing 
of  textile  fabrics.  Ed.  3.  Lond.  Simpkin  Marshall  &  Co. 
1879-85.  21s. 

Old  text  book  for  manufacturing,  but  has  chapters  on  design. 
Jacquard  figures  and  general  arrangements  of  patterns  that  are 
valuable  for  references  in  advanced  study  of  weave  construction. 

Baker,  C.  G.       Seven  textile  fibers.      J  Home  Econ  8:144-47  My  '16. 

Bjorklund,  I.       Manufactured  silk.      J  Home  Econ  9:377-82  Ag  '17. 
tCarter,  H.   A.       Bacteriological  retting  for  ramie,  flax,  etc.       Sci 
Am  S  83:55  Ja  27  '17. 

Cowan,  J.   L.       Story  of  silk.       Sci  Am  S  69:264-6  Ap  23  '10. 
tDannerth,  Frederic.       Methods  of  textile  chemistry.       Wiley,  1908. 
$2.50. 

Laboratory  guide  far  qualitative  and  quantitative  analysis  of  the 
chemical  composition  of  textile  fibers,  yarns  and  fabrics.  Dyestuffs, 
mordants,  and  finishing  materials  are  treated  as  substances  en- 
countered on  finished  goods.  Has  directions  for  making  up  reagents. 

Dewey,  L.  H.       Pure  textiles.       J  Home  Econ  6:222-8  Je  '14. 

25 


Dodge,  C.  R.       Profits  in  flax.      Tech  W  Ja  '12  p  565-70. 

Co-operation  essential  for  profitable  culture.  Consumer  has  better 
appreciation  of  fabric  if  method  of  cultivation  is  understood. 

*Pooley,  W.  H.       Textiles.       Rev.  ed.  with  experiments.       Heath,  c 
1910-14.      $1.00. 

Good  text  book  for  high  schools,  study  clubs,  salespeople  and  con- 
sumers. Processes  of  production  and  manufacture;  substitutes 
and  adulterations;  dyeing-  and  finishing;  physical  and  chemical 
experiments;  names  and  definitions  of  principal  materials.  Gives 
concise  history  of  textiles  and  organization  of  textile  industries. 
Has  valuable  list  of  sources  of  supply,  such  as  standard  textile 
journals,  samples,  permanent  exhibits,  lantern  slides,  chemicals, 
dyestuffs,  etc. 
From  wool  to.  cloth.  N  C  Col  of  Ag  Ext  C  23  S  '16.  lip. 

tGeorgievics,   George    von.        Chemical    technology    of    textile    fibers, 
Lond.     Scott  Greenwood,    1902.       10s   6d. 

Treats  of  chemical  aspects  of  fibers  and  processes  of  manufactur- 
ing, such  as  washing,  bleaching,  carbonizing,  mordanting,  dyeing; 
printing,  dressing  and  finishing.  Written  and  arranged  in  a  clear 
and  forceful  style. 

*Gibbs,  C.  M.       Household  textiles.       Whitcomb  and  Barrows,  1912. 
$1.25. 

For  high  school  classes,  consumers  and  saleswomen.  Simply  writ- 
ten, yet  comprehensive  in  scope.  Deals  with  early  development  of 
textile  arts;  classification  of  fibers;  principles  of  manufacture; 
bleaching  and  dyeing;  adulteration  and  buying,  and  the  hygiene  of 
clothing.  Its  chapters  on  design  and  color,  arts  and  crafts  move- 
ment and  social  problems  are  elemental  in  treatment  but  suffi- 
cient to  establish  an  appreciation  and  to  stimulate  an  interest 
for  more  advanced  study. 

Growing  and  manufacturing  ramie.       Textile  W  52:2283  Ap  21  '17. 
tHannan,  W.  J.       Textile  fibers  of  commerce.       Lond.      Chas.  Grif- 
fin &  co.,  1902.       $3.00. 

"Handbook  on  the  occurrence,  distribution,  preparation  and  uses 
of  animal,  vegetable  and  mineral  fibers.  ..  .used  in  manufacture." 
Classification  differs  from  that  of  other  authors  in  so  far  that 
it  is  approached  from  botanical  side  and  is  very  detailed  in  its 
classification. 

Harmuth,  Lewis.      Dictionary  of  textiles.       Fairchild  pub  co.,  1915. 
$5.00. 

For  home  economics  departments,  libraries,  commercial  and  in- 
dustrial establishments.  Exhaustive  compilation  of  terms  and  defi- 
nitions relating  to  fibers,  fabrics,  manufacturing  and  finishing- 
processes,  chemicals  used  for  textile  purposes,  etc.  Special  atten- 
tion has  been  given  to  obsolete  fabrics,  French,  English  and 
German  textiles1.  Supersedes  Cole's  Dictionary  of  dry  goods — o.  p. 

*Haven,   G.    B.       Testing  blankets  for  heat   transmission.       Textile 
W  52:3307  Je  16  '17. 

tHerzog,    Alois.        Determination    of    cotton    and    linen.        Columbia 
Univ  Teachers'  Col  Tec  Ed  B  7  N  4  '16.     32p.     $.25. 

26 


*Mackinnon,   J.   G.       Household   chemical   tests   for   textile   fabrics. 
J  Home  Econ  8:36-7  Ja  '16. 

tMatthews,  J.   M.       The  textile  fibers.       Ed.   2.       Wiley,   c  1904-7. 
$4.00. 

Comprehensive  and  authoritative  book.  Deals  with  origin,  classi- 
fication, structure,  physical  properties  and  chemical  composition  of 
all  fibers,  tog-ether  with  qualitative,  quantitative  and  microscopic 
analysis  of  both  fiber  and  fabric.  Its  numerous  and  fine  illustra- 
tions of  microscopic  studies  add  much  to  its  usefulness  to  teach- 
ers for  illustrated  lectures. 

Miles,  F.   C.       Fiber  flax.       U  S  Ag  Farmers'  B  669  '15.    19p. 

tMitchell,  C.    A.   &  Prideaux,   R.   M.       Fibers  used  in  textiles  and 
allied  industries.       Van  Nostrand,  1910.      $3.00. 
Classification  of  textile  fibers.     Each  fiber  treated  as  to  its  physical 
and  chemical  properties;  numerous  and  excellent  microscopic  draw- 
ing's. 

*Nystrom,  P.  H.       Textiles.       Appleton,  c  1915.       $2.00. 

Textbook  for  high  school,  normal  and  elementary  college  courses; 
for  consumer  and  retailer.  Deals  with  production,  geography,  mar- 
keting, manufacture  and  distribution  of  fibers.  Has  good  chapters 
on  dyeing  and  printing,  construction  of  weave,  with  illustrations, 
finish  and  care  of  textiles.  Its  chapters  on  physical  and  chemical 
tests  are  sufficient  for  elementary  work. 

Testing  of  materials.       U   S  Bur  Stand  C  45:62-3  '13. 

tTesting   and  properties    of   textile  materials.       U   S  Bur  Stand  C 
41.       Ed.  2.  '15. 

•"Thompson,,  E.  B.       Cotton  and  linen  departments.       Ronald  press, 
1917.       $1.25. 

Highly  instructive  department  store  manual  for  salespeople.  Deals 
with  cotton  and  flax  from  cultivation  to  finished  goods,  including: 
color  and  design;  dyes  and  dyeing;  mixtures;  adulterations;  imita- 
tions and  laundering. 

Thorpe,    Sir    Edward.       Dictionary  of    applied    chemistry.      5   vols. 

Rev.  and   enl.  ed.       Longmans,   1912.        $70.00. 
*Weld,   L.    D.    H.        Shoddy,  its   manufacture   and  use.       New  Eng 

M  n  s  45:610-6  F  '12. 
*Weller,    Marion.        Textiles;    what   every   homemaker    should   know. 

Minn  Univ  Ag  Ext  Special  B  15  O  '17.     20p. 

What  makes  clothes  warm  or  cool.       Lit  Dig  46:1222  My  31  '13. 

*Woolman,  M.   S.   &  McGowan,  E.   B.       Textiles.       Macmillan,  1913. 
$2.00. 

Most  comprehensive  treatment  of  subject.  Deals  with  the  begin- 
nings of  textile  industry;  principles  of  hand  and  power  machinery 
and  manufacture;  physical  properties;  microscopic  and  chemical 
tests.  Laundry  notes,  hygienic,  social  and  economic  aspects  are  of 
special  value.  Bibliography  and  glossary  add  to  its  usefulness. 

27 


Note:     Chapters  on  textiles  and  fabrics  may  be  found  in  the  fol- 
lowing books  entered  elsewhere: 
Baldt's-    Clothing    for   women. 
Fales'  Dressmaking. 
Kinne  &  Cooley's  Shelter  and  clothing. 
Walton's  The  story  of  textiles. 

DYES  AND  DYEING 

tAllen,  A.  H.  Commercial  organic  analysis.  Vol  3  Part  1  rev.  and 
ed.  by  J.  M.  Matthews.  Blackiston,  1900.  $5.00'. 
Tannin,  dyes  and  coloring-  matters.  For  the  manufacturer  and 
student.  Reactions  of  many  of  the  dyes  are  tabulated  with  formu- 
las and  derivations.  Includes  good  descriptions  of  natural  dye- 
stuffs  and  common  adulterants.  At  the  end  of  each  section  are 
tables  for  the  recognition  of  dyes  on  the  fibers. 

tFraps,  G.   S.       Principles  of  dyeing.       Macmillan,  1903       $1.60. 

Book  aims  to  be  "a  systematic  presentation  of  the  principles  under- 
lying- the  art  of  dyeing1,"  and  includes  a  large  number  of  labora- 
tory experiments.  To  be  used  as  a  guide  for  the  student  in  ob- 
taining a  general  survey  of  the  field  and  therefore  does  not  pretend 
to  be  a  manual  of  dyeing  for  the  production  of  particular  colors. 

Hopkins,  A.    A.   ed.       Scientific   American  cyclopedia   of  formulas. 
Munn,  c  1910.       $5.00. 
Chapter    9,   Dyeing   formulas. 

^Matthews,  J.   M.       Laboratory  manual  of  dyeing  and  textile  chem- 
istry.     Wiley,  1909.       $3.50. 

Guide  for  laboratory  instruction  to  be  used  in  connection  with 
more  general  works.  Contains  properties  of  fibers  and  application 
of  dyes;  tests  and  methods  for  analyzing  fabrics  and  coloring 
matters. 

*Pellew,  C.  E.       Dyes  and  dyeing.       New  ed.  enl.      McBride,  c  1913- 
18.       $2.00. 

Good  handbook  far  amateur  dyers  and  craftsmen.  Simple  home  di- 
rections for  dyeing  on  a  small  scale,  with  many  suggestions  ais  to 
advantages  and  limitations  of  dyes  and  methods. 

Sadtler,  S.    S.        Chemistry  of  familiar  things.       Lippincott,  1915. 

$1.75. 
Thorp,  F.   H.       Outlines  of  industrial  chemistry.       Ed.  2  rev.  and 

enl.       Macmillan,  1898-1905.       $3.75. 

Thorp    and    Sadtler   both    have    chapters    on   water,    soaps,    solvent 

paper  and  textiles.     Good  reference  for  either  students  or  teachers. 

tWahl,   Andre.       The   manufacturer    of   organic   dye    stuffs.        Lond. 
Bell,  1914.       $1.60. 

Handbook  for  manufacturer  and  student  on  the  chemistry  of  lead- 
ing- dyes  of  each  class.  Contains  little  on  the  application  of  dye- 
stuffs,  but  is  excellent  for  textile  student  as  it  is  well  arranged 
and  contains  many  references  to  the  patents  and  original  sources. 

28 


HYGIENE 

*Cavanagh,  Francis.       Care  of  the  body.      Ed  2.       Lond.     Methuen, 
1907-08.      $2.00. 

Chap.  6  on  clothing-  and  chaps.  3,  7,  8,  9  and  10  on  hygiene  in- 
cluded because  of  their  importance  in  relation  to  aesthetic  re- 
quirements of  efficient  dress. 

*Galbraith,    A.    M.        Personal    hygiene    and    physical    training   for 
women.       Saunders,   1911.       $2.00. 

Chaps.  2  and  3  on  "the  care  of  the  skin  and  its  appendages  and 
dress  the  fundamental  cause  of  woman's  physical  deterioration." 

Note:  Harrington  and  Le  Basquet;  below,  could  be  used  if  more 
convenient. 

Harrington,  Charles.  Manual  of  practical  hygiene.  Ed.  4  rev. 
and  enl.  Lea  and  Febiger,  c  1911.  $4.50. 

LeBasquet,    Maurice.        Personal    hygiene.        Chicago,    Amer    school 

of  home  economics,  1907.       $1.50. 

*Mosher,  C.   D.       Health  and  the  woman  movement.       Nat'l  board 
Y.W.C.A.,  600  Lexington  Ave.  N.   Y.,   1916.       $.25. 
Causes  of  ill  health  and  principles  underlying   good  health  clearly 
defined.      Simple    exercises    given    whereby   every  woman   may    im- 
prove if  not  attain  the  physical  ideal  of  a  sound  body. 

Sargent,  D.  A.       Hygiene,  dress  and  dress  reform.       J  Home  Econ 

.  2:298-305  Je  '10. 
Note:      Chaps  on   clothing  and   health  may  be   found   in  following 

books  entered  elsewhere: 

Gibbs'  Household  textiles. 

Kinne  and  Cooley's  Shelter  and  clothing. 

Woolman  and  McGowan's  Textiles. 

ECONOMY  IN   SELECTION 
Clothing  budget 

Andrew,  B.   R.       A  survey  of  your  household  finances.       Columbia 
Univ  Teachers  Col  Tec  Ed  B  26  '14.     15p.    $.10. 
Sec.    III.,    Suggestions    for   classifying   one's   personal   clothing    ex- 
penditures   in   order   to    make   comparisons    with    certain    standard 
budgets. 

Ashlock-,  J.  L.  Cost  of  women's  clothes.  J  Home  Econ  9:499- 
502  N  '17. 

Baker,  C.  G.       Clothes  and  the  income.  J  Home  Econ  Jl  '16  p373-6. 

Brookman,  T.  A.  Family  expense  account.  Heath,  c  1904.  $.60. 
Textbook  for  high  schools.  Although  clothing  budget  is  not  dis- 
cussed, the  concise  and  clear  form  of  keeping  accounts  is  suggest- 
ive for  class  or  individual  needs.  Emphasizes  value  of  keeping 
personal  and  family  accounts.  ' 

Chase,  S.       War  budget  for  the  household.      Ind  91:169-70  Ag  4  '17. 

Clothing  budgets.      }  Home  Econ  8:376-8  Jl  '16. 

29       - 


*East,  A.   M.       Family  budget  chart.       L  H  J  Ja  '16. 

Laws   which   govern    expenditures   and    percents    in    incomes    from 
$60  to  $200   per  month. 

Johnson,  H.    L.       Living  on  the  budget   plan.       Ind  81:459-61  Mr 
29  '15. 

Johnson,  H.  L.       How  to  enjoy  life  on  the  budget  plan.      Harp  B 
N-D  '12  &  Ja-Mr  '13. 

Richards,  E.  H.      Cost  of  living.      Rev.  ed.  by  J.  F.  Norton.    Wiley, 

1899-1917.       $1.00. 

*Streightoff,    F.    H.        Standard   of  living   among   industrial   people 
of  America.  Houghton  Mifflin,  c  1911.       $1.00. 
Summarizes  chief  investigations  which  have  been  made  in  clothing- 
expenditures   among    groups    of   different   standards    of   living  and 
considers  the   necessary  minimum. 

Wharton,  E.  H.       How  to  make  a  budget.      Delin  91:23  Jl  '17. 

Budgets  from  $500  to  $2,000. 
Note:     Chapters   on  budget  may  be  found  in   the  following  books 

entered  elsewhere: 

Baldt's  Clothing  for  women. 

Kinne  &  Cooley's  Shelter  and.  clothing. 

Woolman  &  McGowan's  Textiles. 

Points  in  buying 
Baker,  C.    G.        Discrimination   in  buying.       J  Home  Econ  8:251-5 

My  '16. 

Baker,  C.  G.       Novelty  versus  quality.  J  Home  Econ  8:191-5  Ap  '16. 
Economy  in  leather.      J  Home  Econ  9:336-7  Jl  '17. 
Gibbs,  C.   M.       Some  points  in  choosing  textiles.       Ill  Univ  Dept 

of  H  S  B  vol  10  No  13  N  25  '12.     20p. 
Household   conservation — textiles.        Iowa  Sta    Col    Ext   Emergency 

Leaf  5  Ap  '17.     4p. 

How  can  I  make  my  clothes  last  longer?      Neb  Univ  Ag  Ext  Emer- 
gency B  22  S  24  '17.     4p  typed. 
*Radnor-Lewis,,  C.   T.       How  to  buy  blankets   and  towels.       Good 

H  52:526-9  Ap  11. 
Radnor-Lewis,    C.    T.       How  to   select   linen.       Good  H   52:321-24 

Mr  '11. 
Radnor-Lewis,    C.    T.       How    to   buy   hosiery.       Good   H   54:412-7 

Mr  '12. 
Radnor-Lewis,  C.  T.      How  to  buy  textiles.      Nat  Food  Mag  p  72-6 

S  '17. 
Rolfe,  L.       What  we  shall  wear  this  year  and  next.      J  Home  Econ 

10:125-9  Mr  '18. 
Salisbury,  E.   C.       Conservation  of  clothing.       U  S  Sta  Rel  Serv  W 

S  111-12  N  6  '17.     9p  typed. 


Salisbury,  E.  C.  Conservation  of  clothing — extracts  from  circu- 
lar. Neb  Univ  Ag  Ext  Textiles  C  5.  4p  typed. 

Titsworth,  B.  E.  Hints  on  choosing  textiles.  Cornell  Reading 
Course  Household  Textile  Ser  1  Ag  1  '13.  9p. 

Toombs,  M.  R.  Charm  of  a  limited  wardrobe.  Housewives  M 
My  '18  p  11. 

Woolman,   M.   S.       Hints   on  clothing.       Columbia  Univ  Teachers' 
Col  Tec  Ed  B  4  '17.    7p.    $.10. 
ART 

Audsley,  C.  A.  Color  harmony  in  dress.  McBride  Nast,  1912.  $.75. 
"Should  interest  every  woman  -who  gives  intelligent  thought  to 
problems  of  dress.  Laws  of  harmonious  color  discussed  in  simple 
form.  Chapter  on  color  in  dress  presents  extensive  lists  of  colors 
for  types  and  gives  the  laws  of  their  choice." 

*Bolmar,  Lydia  &  McNutt,  Kathleen.  Art  in  dress.  Peoria,  HI. 
Normal  Arts  press  '17.  $.50. 

Pamphlet  giving  a  concise  treatment  of  the  basic  principles  of 
good  color  and  line  as  applied  to  dress,  with  illustrative  drawings. 
Particularly  useful  to  the  teacher. 

*DeGarmo,  Charles.  Aesthetic  education.  Syracuse,  N.Y.  C. 
D.  Bardween,  1913.  $1.00. 

Whole  book  very  much  worth  while  for  its  broad  view  point. 
Special  selections:  Fashion  vs.  Art.  Decoration  and  Imitations. 

*Ellsworth,  E.  P.  Textiles  and  costume  design.  Jaul  Elder,  1917. 
$1.00. 

Takes  up  briefly  the  history  of  costume;,  principles  of  line  and 
drapery;  silhouette  of  stout  and  slender  figure;  use  of  color  for  cer- 
tain types;  accessories.  Chief  value  of  this  little  book  lies  in  its 
fine  and  brief  organization  of  a  complex  subject,  its  correlation 
with  other  arts  and  its  suggested  outlines  for  study. 

*Ellsworth,,  E.  P.  Textiles  and  costume  design.  Paul  Elder,  1917. 
$1.00. 

Three  essays  on  Fitness,  Beauty,  and  Ethics.  A  little  book  which 
every  woman  should  read. 

Gould,  G.   M.       Fun  of  it.      W  H  C  44:56  Je  '17. 
Gould,  G.   M.       Fashionable  figure — and  how  she  gets  it.  McClure's 

46:32-3  Mr  '16. 

Hessler,  Mrs.  J.  C.  Better  dress  standards.  J  Home  Econ  4: 
469-72  D  '12. 

*Izor,  E.  P.  Costume  design  and  home  planning.  Atkinson,  Mint- 
zer  and  co.,  1916.  $1.00. 

Excellent  student  reference  for  laboratory  classes  which  no  teach- 
er of  elementary  work  should  be  without.     Of  equal  importance  to 
the  woman  who  plans  her  own  costume. 
What  colors  you  should  wear.       Housewives  M  S  '16  p  16. 

*Whitney,  B.  A.  What  to  wear.  Good  Health  pub  co.,  1916.  $2.00. 
A  sound  solution  of  a  perplexing  problem.  Fundamental  princi- 
ples of  dress  discussed  in  an  interesting  style. 

31 


Winterburn,  F.  H.       Principles  of  correct  dress.      Harper  &  bros., 

c  1914.       $1.00. 

Written    in    an    interesting,    conversational    style.      Principles    are 

not  set  forth  as  clearly  and  concisely  as  they  are  in  Izor's  book. 
Note:     Chapters  on  artistic  dress  may  be  found  in  following  books 

entered  elsewhere: 

Baldt's  Clothing  for  women. 

Gibb's  Household  textiles. 

Kinne  &  Cooley's  Shelter  and  clothing. 

Talbot's  Dress  design   (preface). 

ETHICS 
Bliss,   S.   H.        Significance  of  clothes.       Am  J  Psychol   27:217-26 

Ap  '16. 

Houseman,  L.       Petticoat  government.      Contemp  104:663-72  N  '13. 
McCabe,   F.    R.       Modesty   in  women's    clothes.       Harp  W  58:10-2 

Ag  30  '13. 
Rice,  Bertha.      The  business  woman  and  the  powder  puff.       Am  M 

Ja  30,  '18  p  37:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ja  30  '18  p  144. 

Psychological  effect  of  clothes  on  a  business  woman's  career. 
*Tarbell,  I.  M.       Great  problem  of  clothes.      L  H  J  30:26  Ap  '13. 
*Tarbell,  I.  M.       Woman  and  her  raiment.      Am  M  74:468-75  Ag  '12. 
Thomas,  W.    I.       Sex  and  society.       Univ  of  Chicago  press,  1907. 

$1.50. 

Chap,  on  Psychology  of  modesty  and  clothing. 
Note:     Other  chapters  on  ethics   may  be  found   in   the  following 

books  listed  elsewhere: 

Coolidge's  Why  women  are  so. 

Ellsworth's  Textile  and  costume  design,    (preface). 

Farnsworth's  Art  and  ethics  in  dress. 

Woolman  and  McGowan's  Textiles. 


TECHNIQUE  OF  GARMENT  MAKING 

HISTORY  OF  COSTUME 

Earle,  A.  M.       Two  centuries  of  costume  in  America.       1620-1820. 
New  ed.       Macmillan,   1910.       $2.50. 

McClellan,  M.  C.  Historic  dress  in  America,  1607-1870.  2  vols. 
Jacobs,  1904-10.  Vol.  1,  $10.00.  Vol.  2,  $6.00. 
Volumes  listed  above  are  given  for  the  purpose  of  serving  as  an 
historic  background  and  guide  in  the  patriotic  problem  of  creat- 
ing and  developing  American  styles  of  a  characteristic  note.  They 
give  an  appreciation  'and  many  charming  suggestions  well  worth 
emulating  or  adapting  to  modern  dress. 

*Hughes,  Talbot.  Dress  design.  Lond.  John  Hogg,  1913.  $3.00. 
Presented  in  the  form  of  history,  yet  is  also  intended  _to  be  a  book 
of  suggestions.  Rich  in  illustrations  of  costume  from  the  10th  to 

32 


19th  century  with  emphasis  placed  on  character  of  decorations  and 

trimming-s  of  each  century.     Has  patterns  to  scale. 
Northend,  M.   H.       Early  American  costumes.       Amer  Homes  and 

Gardens  Mr  '15  p  95-9. 
Planche,  J.  R.    Cyclopedia  of  costume  and  dictionary  of  dress.  2  vol. 

Lond.      Chatto  &  Windus,  1876.    $50.00. 

Ranks  second  to  Racinet  in  history  of  costume.     Out  of  print. 
Racinet,  A.  C.  A.       Le  costume  historique.      Paris.      Firmin-Didot 

et  Cie.      6  vol.       1888.       $250.00.     (price  varies.) 

Great  monumental  history  of  costume.     Out  of  print. 
Rackle,  M.   G.       Costume  design  for  dressmaking  students.       Ind 

Arts  M  5:290-5  Jl  '16. 

SEWING  AND  DRESSMAKING 
Alteration  of  patterns.  Neb  Univ  Ag  Ext  Textiles  C  7,     2p..  typed. 

*Baldt,  L.  I.      Clothing  for  women.      Lippincott,  1916.      $2.00. 

Comprehensive  text  dealing  with  selection,  design  and  construc- 
tion. Subject  is  approached  from  economic  and  scientific  view 
points  beginning-  with  the  budget,  its  apportionments,  and  im- 
portance of  correct  clothing;  facts  that  consumers  should  know 
about  fibers,  fabrics,  and  adulterations.  Principles  of  clothing  de- 
sign and  color  are  aptly  set  forth  and  well  illustrated.  Has 
chapters  on  pattern  making,  alteration  and  simple  problems  and  in 
design  construction  of  garment  making.  List  of  equipment  and 
tools.  Bibliography. 

*Coates,   L.    T.       American   dressmaking   step  by   step.       Pictorial 
review  co.,  1917.       $1.25. 

Excellent  guide  for  the  inexperienced.  Well  organized  manual  of 
garment  construction;  illustrations  numerous  and  clear;  directions 
explicit.  Contents  lists  chapters  on  sewing  and  dressmaking  ac- 
cessories; preparation  of  materials;  measurements;  patterns  and 
alterations,  finishings,  darning  and  patching;  cutting;  fastenings 
and  plain  and  ornamental  stitches;  construction;  maternity,  in- 
fants' and  children's  garments;  tailoring. 

Dressmaker,  The.     Ed.  2,  rev.  &  enl.       Butterick  pub  co.,  c  1911-16. 
$.50. 

Good  manual  of  constructive  processes  in  garment  making  and 
tailoring  for  beginners  in  sewing,  and  students.  Has  clear  illus- 
trations and  definite  directions  for  the  making  of  practical  and 
ornamental  stitches;  buttonholes;  darning  and  mending;  making 
and  finishing  undergarments;  infants'  and  children's  clothing; 
sailor  and  naval  suits.  Also  includes  a  list  of  efficient  equipment 
for  dressmaking  and  instructions  for  cutting,  sponging,  and  mak- 
ing various  types  of  dresses  and  waists;  section  devoted  to  tailor- 
ed finishes;  remodeling  and  care  of  clothes. 

*Day,  L.   F.   &  Buckle,  Mary,       Art  in  needlework.     Ed  3.  rev.  and 
enl.       Scribner's,  1908.      $2.00. 

Included  because  certain  types  of  hand  decoration  are  the  most 
economical  form  of  trimming.  Gives  the  different  types  of  deco- 
rative work  from  directions  and  diagrams  for  all  fundamental 

33 


stitches  and  their  applications.  Value  of  illustrations  are  greatly 
enhanced  by  showing  the  right  and  wrong  side  of  samplers. 

*Fales,  Jane.       Dressmaking.       Scribner's,   1917.       $1.50. 

Excellent  text  or  reference  for  normals"  and  colleges.  History  of 
costume  logically  developed  and  profusely  illustrated.  Broad  field 
of  the  manufacture  and  economics  of  textiles  is  well  organized 
and  brief;  facts  which  are  fundamental  to  the  wise  selection  and 
economic  expenditure  of  budget  are  emphasized.  Chemical  tests 
not  included.  Section  on  construction  deals  with  drafting  and 
pattern  making;  commercial  patterns;  pattern  designing  and  drap- 
ing; waists,  skirts  and  dresses;  finishing  and  embroidery.  Bibli- 
ography. 

tFuller,  M.  E.  Constructive  sewing.  Indianapolis,  Industrial  book 
&  equipment  co.  4  vols.  1916-17.  $.60  each. 
Valuable  and  suggestive  series  of  four  pamphlets  for  teachers  in 
grammar  and  high  schools.  Deals  with  the  fundamentals  of  sewing 
in  its  logical  progression  from  the  stitches  in  their  application  on 
simple  articles  and  concluding  with  the  principles  of  costume  de- 
sign, millinery  and  their  applications.  Problems  of  bed  and  table 
linen  are  included.  Simple  textile  study  parallels  the  constructive 
problems  at  a  time  when  they  will  be  most  interesting  to  the 
pupil.  Many  illustrations. 

Kinne,  Helen  &  Cooley,  A.   M.       Clothing  and  health.       Macmillan, 
1917.       $.65. 

Treatment  of  subject  is  elementary  and  lucid.  Chapters  are  sub- 
divided into  lessons  so  that  an  inexperienced  teacher  is  guided  in 
method  and  sequence  of  presentation.  Correlates  closely  the  study 
of  the  textile  fibers  with  the  hygiene  of  clothing  and  their  preser- 
vation and  care.  The  budget,  technique  of  sewing,  color  combina- 
tions and  attractiveness  in  dress  are  presented  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  hold  and  stimulate  the  interest  of  the  young  student. 

Kinne,  Helen  &  Cooley,  A.   M.       Shelter  and  clothing.     Macmillan, 
1913.       $1.10. 

Fills  a  long  felt  need  as  a  text  for  high  schools.  Part  devoted 
to  clothing  deals  with  textile,  materials,  methods  of  manu- 
facture and  adulteration,  with  simple  physical  and  chemical  tests 
for  the  identification  of  the  fibers.  Section  on  technique  presents 
problems  of  undergarments;  selection  of  materials  and  decorations; 
pattern  alteration  and  drafting;  cutting  and  making;  concluding 
with  more  advanced  problems  of  costume  design  based  on  art 
principles;  dress  construction;  hygiene  of  clothing,  economics  of 
dress;  care  and  repair  of  clothing. 

*Newcomb,  M.    J.       Dressmaking  at  home.       Penn   Sta  Col   Ext   C 
70  N   '17.      24p. 

*Planning  the  costume.       Iowa  Sta  Col  Ext  H  E  R  9  Je  '16.     20p. 

*Robinson,,  M.  E.       Principles  of  sewing.      Mo  Univ  Ag  Ext  C  41  '17. 

28p. 

Tobey,  E.   S.       Handmade  flowers:  how  to  make  them.       Columbia 
Univ  Teachers'  Col,  c  1914.       $.50. 

Pamphlet  included  because  of  value  of  such  trimmings  in  dress 
construction. 

34 


(l/PA-AA 


tWoolman,  M.  S.  A  sewing  course  for  teachers.  Ed  5  rev.  Wash- 
ington. T.  A.  Fernald,  c  1893-1908.  $1.50.  Interleaved 
copy,  $3.50. 

"Comprises  directions  for  making-  the  various  stitches  and  instruc- 
tions in  methods  of  teaching."  Contains  chapters  on  "notes  for 
teachers"  and  an  outline  on  "suggestive  sewing  for  the  elementary 
school." 

Remodeling 

^Manning,  Hazel.  New  clothes  at  small  cost.  Wis  Univ  Ag  Ext 
C  91  '17.  8p. 

Children's  Clothing 

*Children's  clothing.       Penn  Sta  Col  Ext  C  48  My  '16.     20p. 
Clothes  for  the  growing  child.       US  Children's  Bur  '17.  Ip.  typed. 
Perry,  C.      Mistakes  we  make  in  dressing  our  children.      L  H  J  28: 
37  Ja  15  '11. 

CLEANING  AND  PRESERVATION  OF 
CLOTHING 

LAUNDRY 

Balderston,  L.   R.       Two  wash-day  factors.       L  H  J  33:54  Ap  '16. 

Soap  and  blueing. 

*Balderston,  L.  R.  Laundering.  Ed.  2.  R.  L.  Balderston,  1224 
Cherry  St.,  Philadelphia,  c  1914.  $1.25. 

Best  book  on  the  subject.  Approached  from  artistic  and  scientific 
view  points;  treats  briefly  of  fibers  in  their  relation  to  cleaning; 
washing  and  cleansing  agents  used,  directions  for  washing,  iron- 
ing and  folding  of  typical  garments;  fumigation  and  disinfection 
of  clothing;  d>ry  cleaning.  Methods  of  removing  stains  presented 
in  concise  and  clear  outline  form.  Includes  equipment  and  sug- 
gestive outlines  for  laundry  courses.  Bibliography. 

Bancroft,  W.  D.       Washing  and  cleaning.       J  Home  Econ  8:356-60 
Jl  '16. 

Chambers,  M.  L.       Guide  to  laundry  work.      Boston  cooking  school 

mag  co.,  1915.      $.75. 

Contents  similar  to  "Laundering"  by  Balderston.  Method  of  pre- 
sentation entirely  different — not  as  full. 

Child,  G.  B.  Just  how  to  do  washing.       Delin  86:23  Ap  '15. 

Child,  G.   B.       Shall  clothes  be  soaked.       Delin  87:35  O  '15. 

Helps  for  wash  day.       N  J  International  Harvester  co.  '16.     17p. 

Foreword  on   lack   of  equipment  makes   bulletin  worth  while. 
Kauffman,  T.   E.       Home  laundering.       Ohio  Sta  Univ  Ag  Ext  B  7 

'15.       16p. 
Marlatt,  A.  L.       Washing  made  easier.       Wis  Univ  Dept  of  H  E  B 

44  '17.     3p. 


Marsh,  E.  L.       Laundry  work  in  theory  and  practice.      Longmans, 

1914.  $.75. 

English  publication  written  primarily  for  the  trade.  Would  be 
ve>ry  suggestive  to  teachers  who  have  not  had  much  practical  ex- 
perience. Technique  of  ironing  and  folding  is  given  in  detail  and 
well  illustrated;  includes  types  of  equipment. 

MacLeod,    S.    J.       Housekeeper's  handbook  of  cleaning.       Harper, 

1915.  $1.00. 

Half  of  book  devoted  to  laundry,  rest  house  cleaning. 
Owen,   F.    A.        Dyeing   and   cleaning  of   textile   fabrics.       Wiley, 
1909.       $2.00. 

Value  is  in  its  collection  of  brief  practical  dyeing  recipes  for  use 
in  the  home,  intermingled  with  directions  for  washing  or  cleaning 
and  restoring  various  fabrics  and  materials.  Includes  also  miscel- 
laneous formulas  for  making  soaps,  cleaning  compounds,  bleaches, 
etc.  List  of  dyestuffs,  etc.  in  apx.  is  obsolete. 

*Rose,    Flora.        The    laundry.        Cornell    Reading    Course.        Farm 

House  Series  3  '12.     42p. 

Wadhams,  C.  R.       Simple  directions  for  the  laundress.    Longmans, 
1917.       $.50. 

Written  for  the  laundress;  would  also  be  helpful  to  inexperienced 
housekeeper.  Directions  given  with  clearness,  briefness  and  min- 
uteness as  to  requirements  for  equipment  and  methods  of  laun- 
dering. 

Note:     Chapter  XIV.  The  Laundry  in  Woolman  &  McGowan's  Tex- 
tiles. 

Chemistry 

*Elledge,  H.  G.       Conservation  of  garments  in  laundering.      Sci  Am. 
S  84:30-1  Jl  14  '17. 

Responsibility  irests  with  manufacturer,  user  and  launderer. 
*Ryan,  J.   H.       Advantages  of  softened  water  in  laundry  work.      J 

Ind  &  Eng  Chem  9:397-8  Ap  '17. 

*Shilstone,  H.  M.       Proper  use  of  the  chemicals  in  the  laundry.  Sci 
Am  S  82:203  S  23  '16:  abstract  from  National  Laundry  Journal. 

Soaps 
*Balderston,  L.   R.       Facing  the  facts  on  wash  day.       Good  H  63: 

90-1  N  '16. 

tCharacteristics  of  textile  starches.      Textile  W  D  30  '16  p  411. 
*Nichols,  Janet.       The  making  of  soap.      Housewives  M  10:27  Jl  '17. 
Specifications  for  and  methods  of  testing  soap.  U  S  Bur  Stand  C 
62  '16.     21p. 

Equipment 
Balderston,  L.    R.       Taking  the   work  out  of  washing.       Good  H 

63:65  D  '16. 
Ridlon,  H.       The  home  laundry.       Good  H  0  '11  p  542-44. 


Note:     Some  valuable  information  on  the  chemistry  of  laundering 
may  be  found  under  Working  conditions  in  laundries. 

Removal  of  Stains 
*Balderston,   L.   R.        Home  remedies  for   spots.       Good  H  63:101- 

2  S  '16. 

*Lang,  H.  L.  &  Whittelsey,  A.  H.       Removal  of  stains  from  cloth- 
ing and  other  textiles.       U  S  Ag  Farmers'  B  861  S  '17.  35p. 
Musgrave,  A.   F.       Removal  of  stains  in  the  laundry.       Sci  Am  S 
84:71  Ag  4  '17:  abstract  from  National  Laundry  Journal. 

DRY  CLEANING  AND  PRESERVATION 

Fire   hazards    due    to   static    electricity  in    dry-cleaning   establish- 
ments.      Elec  R  &  W  Elec'n  70:490  Mr  24  '17. 
Principle  applicable  to  cleaning  on  a  small  scale. 
*Marlatt,  C.  L.      True  clothes  moths.       U  S  Ag  Farmers'  B  659  '15. 

8p. 

*Yorke,  S.       How  to  pack  away  your  winter  clothes.      L  H  J  28:30 
My  1  '11. 

THE  TEXTILE  SITUATION 

Note:  The  war  has  taken  millions  of  workers  from  the  fields  and 
mills  of  the  world's  textile  industries.  The  major  part  of  the 
available  textile  production  is  required  for  ammunition  and 
the  machinery  of  war,  clothing  and  bedding  for  the  army 
and  navy  and  supplies  for  the  Red  Cross.  A  very  small  per- 
cent, therefore,  of  the  normal  supply  is  left  for  civilian  needs. 
Conservation  of  textiles  has  become  a  vital  necessity. 
The  references  listed  below  will  serve  as  a  connecting  link 
and  guide  in  the  study  of  one  of  the  most  important  prob- 
lems of  the  day. 

Carroll,  V.  E.  Textile  industry  and  relation  to  the  war.  Textile 
W  52:2272  Ap  21  '17. 

Clothing  and  food  control  in  the  central  empires.  Cur  Hist  M 
N  Y  Times  D  7  '17  ptl:448-51. 

Germany's  business  after  the  war.  Business  Dig  N  7  '17  p  265: 
abstract  from  J  of  Commerce  O  8  '17;  Printers  Ink  O  4  '17 
p  37  and  N  18  '17  p  37. 

Hunter,  K.  A.  Requirements  of  airplane  fabrics.  Textile  W  53: 
1043  S  15  '17. 

Need  of  cooperation  with  textile  schools.  Textile  W  52:615-19 
Ja  13  '17. 

Our  shortage  in  wool  and  the  prospect  of  having  to  wear  old  clothes 
or  shoddy.  Lit  Dig  56:102  Mr  23  '18. 

Schmidt,  L.  W.  Economic  changes  wrought  by  the  war.  Sci  Am 
116:178  F  17  '17. 

37 


Refers  very  briefly  to  textiles,  but  gives  an  economic  aspect  of  the 

present. 
Symposium  of  tariff  and  textile  conditions.       Textile  W  52:614  Ja 

13  '17. 
War  convention  helps  to  solve  the  new  problems  of  retail   stores. 

Nat  Retail  dry  goods  assoc.      Report  F  6-8  '18.    86p. 
Washington  State  Bur  of  Statistics  &  Immigration.       Manufactur- 
ing in  the  state  of  Washington.     '18. 

Article  by  G.  C.  Denny  on   Possibilities   for  textile  manufacturing1. 

P128-39. 
Wanted:    a  clothes  administration.      Lit.  Dig  55:17  D  22  '17. 

COTTON 

Cotton:  the  agricultural  situation  for  1918.      U  S  Ag  C  88  F  18  '18. 

Industrial  uses  of  cotton  bid  fair  to  surpass  its  uses  for  household 
fabrics  and  clothing.  Abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ja-Mr  '17 
p  115. 

More,  J.  L.       Cotton  a  weapon  of  war.      Textile  W  53:1281  S  29  '17. 

Pratt,  E.  E.  Cotton  textiles;  international  trade  and  merchandis- 
ing methods.  U  S  Bur  For  &  Dom  Com  Misc  Series  58.  19p. 
'17.'  Excerpts  Textile  W  52:1591  Mr  3  '17. 

DYESTUFFS 

American  made  dyestuffs  winning  world  markets.  Off  B  O  25  '17  p5. 

Very  brief  and  to  the  point. 

Dye  merger  and  its  relation  to  the  industry.  Textile  W  52:3487-8 
Je  30  '17. 

*Dyestuff  situation  in  the  textile  industries.     U  S  Tariff  commission, 
Tariff  information  series  2  '18.     20p. 

On  the  tariff  and  its  relation  to  various  textile  industries. 
Dyestuff  situation  in  the  United  States.       N  '15  U  S  For  &  Dom 
Com  Bur  '16. 

*Gordon,  J.  W.       Future  of  the  aniline-dye  scheme:  a  fore- thought. 
19th  Cent  78:194-203  Jl  '15. 

Of  historical  nature  dealing-  -with  patent  law  in  its  relation  to 
aniline-dyes.  Excellent  background  study  for  present  dye  situa- 
tion. 

Harold,  J.  F.  X.  American  dyes  in  retrospect  and  prospect.  Tex- 
tile W  52:707  Ja  13  '17. 

*Hebden,  J.   C.       Progress  in  American  dye-stuff  industry.       Met  & 
Chem  Eng  16:474-5  My  1  '17. 

Development  of  dyestuff  industry  will  depend  upon  a  tariff  -written 
in  favor  of  industry  and  not  importer. 

*Hendrick,  Ellwood.      How  dyestuffs  crisis  was  met.       World  W  Mr 
18  p  331-4. 

""Interdependence  of  dyestuff,  and  explosive  industries.       Textile  W 
52:2242  D  1  '17. 


Norton,  T.    H.        Evolution   of  artificial  dyestuffs.       Sci   A  117:40 

Jl  21  '17. 

Norton,  T.   H.       Dyestuffs  for  American  textile  and  other  indus- 
tries.     U  S  Dept  of  Commerce  Spec  Agents  Series  96  '15.  lOp. 

Report  on  dyestuff  and  textile  situation  previous  to  our  entrance 

into  the  war. 
Norton,  T.  H.       Dyestuff  situation  in  the  U.  S.       US  Bur  of  For 

&  Dom  Com  Spec  Agents  Series  111  '15.    15p. 

Status  of  artificial  dye  industry  in  Ag.  1914;  its  present  and  future 

development. 
Open   letter  to  the  House  of   Representatives  of  the    Sixty-fourth 

Congress.      J  Ind  &  Eng  Chem  9:4-5  Ja  '17. 

In  regard  to   dyestuff  bill.     Draft  of  resolution  protesting   against 

the  excepting-  clause  of  dyestuff  legislation. 
*Stone,  I.  F.       American  dyestuff  industry.       Met  &  Chem  Eng  17: 

226-7  S  15  '17. 
Slosson,  E.   E.       What  comes  from  coal  tar.       Ind  N  10  '17  p  291. 

LINEN 

Can  we  develop  a  larger  linen  industry?       Textile   W  52:827-8   Ja 

13  '17. 
Clark,   W.    C.    G.        Development  of  an  .American  linen   industry. 

U  S  Bur  of  For  &  Dom  Com  Spec  agents  series  122  '16. 

Prospect  for  future  development. 
Miles,  F.  C.       Fiber  flax.      U  S  Ag  Farmers'  B  669  '15.     19p. 

Valuable  statistics  and  discussion  of  present  flax  situation. 

LEATHER 
A  chance  for  a  good  will  campaign.       Printers  Ink  O  '17  p  116-7: 

abstract  in  Business  Dig  N  7  '17  p  273. 

Government  contract's  effect  on  substitutes  for  civilian  shoes. 
Threatened  slump  in  shoe  trade  may  bring  better  merchandising. 

Printers   Ink  D  20  '17  p  92:   abstract  in  Business   Dig  Ja  23 

'18  p   131. 

SILK 
Importance  of  Japanese  silk  trade.       Second  Japanese  Supp.  N  Y 

Eve  Post  Je  30  '17  p  28:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ag  1   '17 

p  1091. 
The  Jobbers  association  of  dress  fabric  buyers  met  July  17  in  New 

York  and  discussed  effect  of  war  on  dry  goods.       Abstract  in 

Business  Dig  Jl  25  '17  p  993. 

Statistics  on  rise  in  cost  of  silk. 
Silk  association  of  America.      46th  Annual  report.      My  27  '18.  117p. 

SUBSTITUTES 

Kertesz,   A.        Paper   yarn    textiles   and   dyeing   and   impregnating 
them.       Sci  Am  S  84:19  Jl  14  '17. 


Matthews,  J.  M.  The  use  of  paper  yarns  for  clothing.  Address 
at  special  meeting  of  the  Chemists  Club  D  9  '17.  Abstract  in 
Business  Dig  D  19  '17  p  518. 

Successful  use  of  nettle  fibers  in  cloth  making.  Sci  Am  S  116:110 
Ja  27  '17. 

Typha  plant — a  substitute  for  cotton.      Sci  Am  S  83:52  Ja  27  '17. 

WOOL 

Conference  of  representative  woolen  and  worsted  manufacturers 
meets  with  Commercial  Economy  Board  of  the  Council  of  Nat'l 
Defense,  for  the  purpose  of  considering  possibilities  of  war 
economy  in  wool,  May  27  '17.  Abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ap- 
Je  '17  p  503. 

Hart,  S.  H.  World  wool  demands.  Amer  Sheep  Breeder  N  '17 
p  647-51. 

How  war  has  shifted  the  world's  wool  trade.  American  Ja  '17  p  9- 
13:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ap-Je  '17  p  504. 

"Keep  sheep"  movement.      Textile  W  52:623  Je  13  '17. 

New  restrictions  governing  imports  and  exports  of.  wool.  C  &  F 
Chron  D  22  '17  p  2416:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  Ja  2  '18  p  39. 

Sheep  and  wool  industry  in  the  United  States.       U  S  Chamber  of 

Commerce  Spec  B  Ap  26  '18.     8p. 

*Washington  on  the  trail  of  "All  wool"  advertising.       Printers  Ink 
S  20  '17  p  12:  abstract  in  Business  Dig  O  3  '17  p  56. 

SUGGESTIVE  STUDY  OUTLINES 

DEPARTMENT  STORES 
Norton,  H.   R.       Department-store  education.       U  S  Bur  of  Ed  B 

9  '17.     70p. 

SCHOOLS 
Balderston,  L.   R.       Course  of  instruction  in  laundry  management. 

J  Home  Econ  2:539-44  N  '10. 
Balderston,  L.    R.        Laundry:   equipment,  plans  and  formulas.       J 

Home  Econ  6:321-8  O  '14. 
Buchanan,  F.       Study  of  textiles  as  a  part  of  the  related  subject 

matter  in  courses  of  sewing.      J  Home  Econ  6:135-8  Ap  '14. 
Craig,   A.    H.        Textile   experimentation.       J  Home   Econ  3:229-35 

Je  '11. 
Crawford,  L.   R.       Art,  the  foundation  of  domestic  art.       J  Home 

Econ   3:246  Je  '11. 
Home  economics   teaching  under  the   present  economic   conditions. 

U  S  Bur  of  Ed  C  S  5  '17.    lip. 
Laundering;   why  we  have  a  college   course   in   this   subject.  Teach 

Col  Rec  16:92-5  Ja  '15. 

40 


Marlatt,  A.  L.  Study  of  the  subject  of  textiles  as  it  is  presented 
in  higher  institutions.  J  Home  Econ  3:217-21  Je  '11. 

McKeewn,  M.  J.  &  L.  R.  Balderston.  Analysis  of  blues.  J  Home 
Econ  3:251-2  Je  '11. 

Sewing  equipment.      Neb  Univ  Ag  Ext  Textiles  C  6.  2p.  typed. 

Sill,  R.  P.  Outline  of  a  course  in  elementary  clothing  and  hand- 
work. Columbia  Univ  Teachers  Col  Tec  Ed  B  21  '15.  12p. 

Syllabus  of  Home  Economics.      Am  Home  Econ  Assoc  '13.    66p. 

WOMEN'S   CLUBS 

The  problem  of  dress.       Gen  Fed  Women's  Clubs  '16-'17.     18p. 

Women's  club  outlines.      Neb  Univ  Ag  Ext  H  E  Ser  2  C  5.  5p.  typed. 

Women's  club  outlines.      Neb  Univ  Ag  Ext  Ser  2  C  5.     lOp.  typed. 

One  of  the  best  methods  of  keeping  informed  as  to  progress  and 
conditions  in  and  effecting  the  textile  industries  is  through 
the  national  associations  and  technical  journals.  Associations 
listed  below  distribute,  free  of  charge,  reports  and  bulletins, 
the  contents  of  which  give  the  teacher  a  basis  for  more  intel- 
ligent interpretation  of  complex  textile  problems  and  situa- 
tions: 

American  Association  of  Woolen  and  Worsted  Manufacturers,  45 
East  17th  Street,  New  York  City. 

National  Retail  Dry  Goods  Association,  34  West  42nd  Street,  New 
York  City. 

The  Silk  Association  of  America,  354  Fourth  Ave..,  New  York  City. 
Textile  World  Journal.     $3.00  per  year.     Bragdon,  Lord  and  Nagle 
Co.,  Inc.,  46i  Eighth  Avenue,  New  York  City. 
A  weekly  journal  of  news,  market  reports  and   technical  in- 
formation. 

*Textile  American.      Published    monthly.     $1.00   per   year.      Textile 
American  Publishing  Co.,  Boston,  Mass. 

Bulletin  of  the  National  Association  of  Wool  Manufacturers.  Quar- 
terly. $2.00  per  year.  50  State  Street,  Boston. 

KEY  TO  MAGAZINES,  BULLETINS  AND 
PAMPHLETS,  WITH  ADDRESSES 

Note:     Stars   (*)   indicate  suggestions  for  first   selection  by  public 

libraries;    (t)  indicates  books  technical. 
Note:     Abbreviations  for  months:     Ja — January;  F — February;  Mr — 

March;  Ap — April;  My — May;  Je — June;  Jl — July;  Ag — August; 

S — September;  O — October;  N — November;  D — December. 
Note:     B — Bulletin;  p — page;  C — Circular;  Leaf — Leaflet;  Exp  Sta — 

Experiment  Station;  Ext — Extension  Department;  Col — College. 
Note:      Bulletins   and   pamphlets    are    usually    free,    unless   price   is 

given.     U.    S.    departments  and  State  Agricultural  extension 

departments  have  the  franking  privilege,  but  it  might  be  safe 

41 


to  enclose  postage  in  sending  to  other  sources.  For  all  U.  S. 
publications,  address  Issuing  department,  Washington,  D.  C., 
or  Supt.  of  documents,  Washington,  D.  C. 

Advertising  and  Selling— 381  Fourth  Ave.,  New  York.    $2. 

Am  City — American  City.     Civic  Press,  87  Nassau  St.,  New    York.  $3. 

Am  Econ  R — American  Economic  Review.  American  Economic  As- 
sociation, Ithaca,  N.  Y.  $5. 

Amer  Homes  &  Gardens — Amerian  Homes  and  Gardens.  Munn  &  Co., 
233  Broadway,  New  York.  $3. 

Am  Home  Econ  Assoc — American  Home  Economics  Association,  1211 
Cathedral  St.,  Baltimore,  Md. 

Amer  Industries — American  Industries,  30  Church  St.,  New  York.    $1. 

Am  J  Psycho! — American  Journal  of  Psychology.  Clark  Univ.,  Wor- 
cester, Mass.  $5. 

Am  M — American  Magazine,  381  Fourth  Ave.,  New  York.  $1.50. 

Am  Sheep  Breeder — American  Sheep  Breeder  Co.,  9  S  Clinton  St., 
Chicago.  $1.25. 

Ann  Am  Acad — Annals  of  the  American  Academy  of  Political  and 
Social  Science,  36th  and  Woodland  Ave.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  $6. 

Art  World— 2  West  45th  St.,  New  York.    $4. 

Atlan — Atlantic  Monthly,  3  Park  St.,  Boston,  Mass.    $4. 

Bookman— Dodd,  Mead  &  Co.,,  4th  Ave.  and  30th  St.  New  York.     $3. 

Business  Dig — Business  Digest.  Cumulative  Digest  Corp.,241  W  37th 
St.,  New  York.  $10. 

Canada   Dept  of  Agriculture — Ottawa,  Canada. 

Cent— Century  Co.,  353  4th  Ave.,  New  York.     $4. 

C  &  F  Chron — Commercial  &  Financial  Chronicle,  W.  Pine  and  De- 
peyster  Sts.,  New  York.  $10. 

Chaut — Chautauquan.  Chautauquan  Press,  Chautauqua,  N.  Y. 

Chem  Abs — Chemical  Abstracts.  Amer.  Chemical  Soc,r  Easton,  Pa.  $6. 

Colliers— P.  F.  Collier  &  Son,  416  W.  13th  St.,  New  York.    $2.50. 

Columbia  Univ  Teachers'  Col — Teachers'  College,  Columbia  Univers- 
ity, 525  W.  120  St.,  New  York  City. 

Contemp — Contemporary  Review.  Leonard  Scott  Pub.  Co.,  249  W. 
13th  St.,  New  York.  $5.00. 

Cornell  Reading  Course — Cornell  University,  College  of  Agriculture, 
Ithaca,  N.  Y. 

Cosmopolitan — International  Magazine  Co.,  119  W.  40th  St.,  New 
York.  $1.50. 

Craftsman— Craftsman  Pub  Co.,  6  E.  39th  St.,  New  York.    $3. 

Cur  Hist  M  N  Y  Times — Current  History  Magazine,  New  York  Times, 
Times  Square,  New  York.  $3. 

Cur  Opin — Current  Opinion.  Current  Literature  Co.,,  63  W.  36th  St., 
New  York.  $3. 

Delin — Delineator.  Butterick  Pub.  Co.,  Butterick  Bldg.,  Spring  and 
Macdougal  Sts.,  New  York.  $1.50. 

Econ  W— Economic  World,  W.  80  Wall  St.,  New  York  City.    $4. 

Elec  R  &  W  Elec'n— Electric  Railway  and  Western  Electrician.  Elec- 
trical Review  Pub.  Co.,  608  S.  Dearborn  St.,  Chicago,  111.  $3. 

Forum— Forum  Publishing  Co.,  286  5th  Ave.,  New  York.     $2.50. 

Gen  Fed  Women's  Clubs — General  Federation  of  Women's  Clubs. 
Home  Economics  Department,  Mrs.  J.  G.  Gawler,  Chairman, 
1401  W.  Chestnut  St.,  Yakima,  Wash. 

Good  H— Good  Housekeeping  Magazine,  119  W.  40th  St.,  New  York. 
$1.50. 

42 


Harp — Harper's    Monthly.      Harper   &   Bros.,   Franklin    Square,   New 

York.     $4. 
Harp  B — Harper's  Bazaar.     International  Magazine  Co.,   119  W  40th 

St.,  New  York.    $3. 
Harp   W — Harper's   Weekly.     Harper's   Weekly  Corporation,   Fourth 

Ave.  and  20th  St.,  New  York.     $5. 

Housewives  M — Housewives  Magazine,  25  W.  45th  St.,  New  York.  $2. 
Ind  Arts  M — Industrial  Arts  Magazine.    Bruce  Pub.  Co.,  Milwaukee, 

Wis.     $1.50. 

Ind— Independent,  W.  119  40th  St.,  New  York.    $4. 
Ill  Univ  Dept  of  H  S — Illinois  University,  Department  of  Household 

Science,  Urbana,  111. 
Iowa  Sta  Col  Ext — Iowa  State  College,  Extension  Department,  Ames, 

Iowa. 
J  of  Com — New  York  Journal  of  Commerce,   Daily,  Boix  1500,  New 

York.    $12. 

J  Home  Econ — Journal  of  Home  Economics.       American  Home  Eco- 
nomics Association,  1211  Cathedral  St.,  Baltimore,  Md.    $2. 
J  Ind  &  Eng  Chem — Journal  of  Industrial  and  Chemical  Engineering. 

American  Chemical  Society,  Easton,  Pa.     $6. 
J  Pol  Econ — Journal   of  Political   Economy.     University  of  Chicago 

Press,  Chicago,  111.    $3. 
L  H  J — Ladies'  Home  Journal.    Curtis  Pub  Co.,  Independence  Square. 

Philadelphia,  Pa.     $1.50. 
Lit  Dig — Literary  Digest.     Funk  &  Wagnalls  Co.,  354  4th  Ave.,  New 

York.    $3. 

Liv  Age — Living  Age  Co.,  6  Beacon  St.,  Boston,  Mass.    $6. 
Met  &  Chem  Eng — Metallurgical  and  Chemical  Engineering.    McGraw 

Pub.  Co.,  239  W  39th  St.,  New  York.    $3. 
McClure— McClure's  Magazine.     McClure  Pub.,  4th  Ave  and  20th  St., 

New  York.     $1. 
Minn  Univ  Ag  E<xt — College  of  Agriculture,  University  of  Minnesota, 

University  Farm,  Extension  Department,  St.  Paul,  Minn. 
Mo  Univ  Ag  Ext — College  of  Agriculture,  University  of  Missouri,  Ex- 
tension  Department,   Columbia   Mo. 
M  Rev  Bur  Labor  Statistics — Monthly  Review  of  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of 

Labor   Statistics.     Department  of  Labor,  Washington,   D.   C. 
Nation— 20  Vesey  St.,  New  York.     $4. 
Nat  Educ  Assn — National   Education  Association.     Proceedings  and 

Addresses.     National   Education  Assn.,  140  Mass.  Ave.  N.  W., 

Washington,  D.   C.     $2. 
Nat   Food   Mag — National   Food   Magazine.      Pierce    Pub   Co.,    45    W. 

34th  St.,  New  York.     $1. 
Nat  Retail  Dry  Good  Assoc — National  Retail  Dry  Good  Association, 

34  W.  42nd  St.,  New  York. 
Neb  Univ  Ag  Ext — College  of  Agriculture,  University  of  Nebraska, 

Extension  Department,  Lincoln,  Neb. 
New  Eng  M — New  England  Magazine.     New  England  Magazine  Co., 

221  Columbus  Ave.,  Boston,  Mass.    $1.75. 
N  J  International  Harvester  Co — New  Jersey  International  Harvester 

Company,  Harvester  Bldg.,  Chicago,  111. 
19th  Cent — 19th  Century  Magazine.     Leonard  Scott  Pub.  Co.,  249  W 

13th  St.,  New  York.    $5. 

Off  B — Official  Bulletin,  Committee  on  Public  Information,  Washing- 
ton, D.  C. 

*      43 


Ohio  Sta  Univ  Ag  Ext — College  of  Agriculture,  Ohio  State  Univers- 
ity, Extension  Department,  Columbus,  Ohio. 

Outlook— Outlook  Co.,  381  Fourth  Ave.,  New  York.    $4. 

Penn  Sta  Col  Ext — Pennsylvania  State  College,  Extension  Department, 
State  College  Station,  Pa. 

Prince  Edward  Is  Dept  of  Ag — Prince  Edward  Island,  Department 
of  Agriculture,  Charlottetown,  Canada. 

Printers  Ink — W.  185  Madison  Ave.,  New  York.     $2. 

Proceed  Acad  Pol  Sci  in  N  Y — Proceedings  of  the  Academy  of  Po- 
litical Science  in  New  York,  Columbia  Univ.,  New  York.  $5. 

R  of  Rs — Review  of  Reviews.  Review  of  Reviews  Co.,  30  Irving 
Place,  New  York.  $3. 

Salesmanship — M.  Kresge  Bldg.,  Detroit,  Mich.    $2. 

Sci  Am — Scientific  American.  Munn  &  Co..,  233  Broadway,  (New 
York.  $4. 

Sci  Am  S — Scientific  American  Supplement.  Munn  &  Co.,  233  Broad- 
way, New  York.  $5. 

Scrib  M — Scribner's  Magazine.  Chas.  Scribner's  Sons,  597  5th  Ave., 
New  York.  $4. 

Silk  Assoc  of  America — 354  Fourth  Ave.,  New  York. 

Smithsonian  Institution — Washington,  D.  C. 

Survey — Survey  Associates,  112  E  19th  St..,  New  York.    $3. 

System — A.  W.  Shaw  Co.,  Wabash  Ave.  and  Madison  St.,  Chicago, 
111.  $3. 

Teach  Col  Rec— Teachers'  College  Record.  Columbia  University,  New 
York.  $1. 

Tech  W— Technical  World,  Drexel  Ave.  &  58th  St.,  Chicago,  111.  $1.50. 

Textile  W— Textile  World.  Bragdon,  Lord  &  Nagle  Co.,  461  8th  Ave. 
at  34th  St..r  New  York.  $3. 

U  S  Ag — U.   S.    Department  of  Agriculture. 

U  S  Bur  Ed — U.   S.  Bureau  of  Education. 

U  S  Bur  For  &  Dom  Com — U.  S.  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic 
Commerce. 

U  S  Bur  of  Labor — U.   S.  Department  of  Labor. 

U  S  Bur  of  Labor  Statistics — Department  of  Labor. 

U  S  Bur  of  Standards — U.  S.  Bureau  of  Standards,  Commerce  De- 
partment. 

U  S  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Washington,  D.  C. 

U  S  Dept  of  Commerce — U.  S.   Department  of  Commerce. 

U  S  Sta  Rel  Serv— U.   S.    States  Relation  Service. 

U  S  Children's  Bur — U.  S.  Children's  Bureau. 

Vt  Univ  Ag  Ext — University  of  Vermont  and  Statte  Agricultural 
College,  Burlington,  Vt. 

Washington  State  Bur  of  Statistics  and  Immigration,  Olympia,  Wash. 

Wis  Univ  Ag  Ext — University  of  Wisconsin,  Extension  Department, 
Madison,  Wis. 

Wis  Univ  Dept  H  E — University  of  Wisconsin,  Department  of  Home 
Economics.,  Madison,  Wis. 

'W  H  C — Woman's  Home  Companion,  381  Fourth  Ave.,  New  York.  $1.50. 

World  Outl— World  Outlook,  150  5th  Ave.,,  New  York.    $1.50. 

World's  W— World's  Work.  Doubleday  Page  &  Co.,  Garden  City, 
N.  Y.  $3. 

W  Va  Univ  Ag  Ext — College  of  Agriculture,  West  Virginia  Univers- 
ity, Extension  Department,  Morgantown,  W.  Va. 


44 


* 


>4°  (6936s) 


PAT.  JAN.  21. 


TS 


v/ 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 


